Monday, May 22, 2006

World Trip Blog Retired - See new blog!

For those of you who've told us how much you love seeing what's going on in our life, I have started a new blog: Lee & Betsy's Life (http://leebetsylife.blogspot.com) Since our world trip is over, I am retiring this blog. However, it will stay online in case you ever wish to come back to read a story or look at pictures. We are so glad so many people were able to enjoy the stories of our big adventure!

Click here to see the new blog!

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Saturday, March 25, 2006

Home Sweet Home

The trip is over! We returned to Santiago, Chile last week and sucessfully sold our little green bug (not before it gave us one last problem; flat tire on the way to deliver it to the lady we sold it to). We are now back in Colorado at the Hoffman's new house in Kittredge, which is near Evergreen. We enjoyed spending the first three days back with Lee's grandparents who were in town. Today, Saturday the 25th is our welcome back party. Over then next few weeks we'll be visiting with friends, looking for new jobs, setting up our place to live at Lee's parents house, getting cell phones, and just plain getting into the swing of "real life" again. Hope to hear from and see all of you soon!

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Wednesday, March 01, 2006

Father-in-Law/Son-in-Law Bonding

While Betsy and Mary chatted the day away on a comfy, cozy bus to Mendoza, the guys (Lee and Clark) truly shared one bonding day in the Green Goat. Just fresh from a tune-up at the mechanic, we were sure the car was fixed and ready to go. Of course not! This time the alternator went out, turning a 7-hour drive into a 17-hour drive down semitruck filled one-lane highways with near no headlights. After hours of tinkering, changing batteries (located under the rear seat under mountains of luggage), visiting repair shops, and pushing the vehicle over and over, Lee and Clark met the girls in Cordoba at 2:30am!

PICTURES OF CORDOBA

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Dad the Tango King!


Tango, the brooding, sultry dance of Argentina. Who knew that Clark was truly a tango master. Last night we went to an intimate little restaurant called Bar Sur in San Telmo, the oldest barrio in Buenos Aires and the home to the tango. Our dinner was complete with a tango show, featuring classic musicians, singers and tango dancers. At the end of each dance session, the pros would call upon members of the audience to join them on the dance floor. Clark was one of the lucky chosen few to glide across the dance floor with the slender and beautiful dancer. He was a natural! Although he was a bit embarrassed, we were all truly impressed at his grace and style.

PICTURES OF BUENOS AIRES #2 (HALING'S VISIT)

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Friends and Family


At long last, we made it back to Buenos Aires! We spent five days in the city once again exploring the intricate architecture and showing Mary and Clark (aka, Mom & Dad Haling) all the sights of the city. Our great friend and always gracious hostess, Rosana, was once again our own personal tour guide, making sure we hit all the major city spots and filling us with fun facts and historical info about her city. Her family invited us all over one night for a traditional Argentine asada (barbeque). What a great evening it was to relax, drink wine, and have a fantastic meal with family and friends.

PICTURES OF BUENOS AIRES #2 (HALING'S VISIT)

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Tuesday, February 28, 2006

Death of a VW


Over the course of the past six weeks, the Green Goat has become our nemisis. What we thought was going to be a reliable and easily fixable car has turned into the persistant headache on our life. We bought the Bug in Santiago, where there were thousands of VWs, new and old. We assumed it would be the easiest car in the world to get fixed. We assumed wrong. When we have car trouble with this car in Argentina, our day typically consists of going from one gas station or auto repair shop to the next, where everybody just gives us blank stares and asks "What kind of car is this?". So, we´ve driven nearly 2,000 miles on a tire that´s the wrong size, and we spent two full days having to push-start the car at every stop. Quite the road trip adventure, and test to Lee´s auto knowledge and spanish language skills.

PICTURES OF EAST COAST ROAD TRIP

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The sand between our toes


To break up our trip north, we spent two relaxing days on Argentina´s Atlantic coast, soaking in the sun.....a favorite summer pastime for all Argentines. One night was spent in a tiny, and beautiful, little coastal town with mansions lining the beach. We figured the town is either home to all the rich oil executives or is an up-and-coming vacation spot. Next we traveled north to the popular summer spot Puerto Madryn, where the beaches and streets were jam-packed with families enjoying their summer vacation. Looking down the wide shore-line, it was a sea of people laying in the sun, playing soccer, making sand castles, and all the other typical beachtime activities. It was in this town that we discovered the best of the best (and trust us, there are thousands to choose from) ice cream shops in Argentina.

PICTURES OF EAST COAST ROAD TRIP

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The long road home


Route 3, otherwise known as Argentina´s part of the Transatlantic Highway, starts at the tip of Tierra del Fuego and ends all the way in Alaska. It was this highway that took us up the long, flat and desolate east coast of Argentina for our five day drive back to Buenos Aires. Lots of oil drilling and small industrial towns along the way. Further north, it was all farm and ranch land. Lucky for us, this highway was paved, making travel much quicker than the rough rough highway 40 we took on our way south.

PICTURES OF EAST COAST ROAD TRIP

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Not quite kayaking


Our final attempt at kayaking ended up actually being a day of quasi canoeing in a little inflatable raft! For our final day at the end of the world, Ushuaia, we chose to do an all day excursion on land and on water. We started out by driving further east down the Beagle Channel to a private estancia where we suited up in ridiculous waterproof pants and life jackets and hopped into our inflatable raft for two hours of paddling. The water was calm and peaceful (a bit too peaceful for our liking) on the small river, but soon we were out in the open water of the channel and paddling was nearly impossible. We were exhausted! But, the highlight was when a curious little sea lion took an interest in us and started swimming all around our boat! The rest of the excursion took us on a rather uneventful hike, and then on a fishing boat to see more penguins.

PICTURES OF TIERRA DEL FUEGO #2

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Monday, February 13, 2006

Anchors Away!


Today we took a tour of the Beagle Channel by boat. In the fog and light rain, we made our way out to the town´s landmark old lighthouse. After that we cruised around to all the little islands nearby to look at the marine life. We saw lots of penguins swimming in the water. And we watched huge colonies of sea lions and fur seals swimming, playing and lounging on the rocks!

PICTURES Tierra del Fuego #1 (Ushuaia & Beagle Channel)

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It´s the End of the World as we Know it!


We made it to the end of the world! We´re in Ushuaia, a city at the very southern tip of Argentina, and one proudly claims the title of the world´s southernmost city. It´s a port town, so as you can imagine, it´s filled with a mix of fisherman, and wealthy travelers who´ve just stepped off their antarctic cruises. Our camp sight is absolutely amazing! We´re camping at the base of a ski resort that overlooks the entire town, along with the Beagle Channel and all of the little nearby islands. Today we drove to the very end of the Transatlantic Highway (RN 3 in Argentina).....as far south as we go for this trip at least. It´s all north from here.

PICTURES Tierra del Fuego #1 (Ushuaia & Beagle Channel)

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One more gravel road


Just when we thought it had ended......there was one more. Like we mentioned before, in order to drive into Tierra del Fuego (the ´boot´of Argentina), you have no choice but to drive through Chile. Makes for lots and lots of trips through customs. Unfortunately, the gravel road through Chile was the absolute worst of the worst that we´ve experienced so far. An endless sea of potholes for nearly two hours. Lee decided that it´s Chile´s way of saying "Screw you Argentina, and anyone who wants to visit!" (the two countries don´t like each other very much!) Lucky for us, we get to drive it not once, but twice!

PICTURES Tierra del Fuego #1 (Ushuaia & Beagle Channel)

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More about the sheep....


Sheep ranches in Argentina are called Estancias. There are thousands of estancias throughout the country. Many of them have been around for hundreds of years, and many have opened their doors for tourism, letting people stay, and even participate in a working sheep ranch. As we continued through Chile, we came upon a huge estancia, right on the edge of the water. It was more than 100 years old, and many of the buildings were totally abandoned. On there shore, there were two MASSIVE ships from the late 1800s that had been declared national monuments. We were able to walk all around them, even inside the shells of the ships!

PICTURES of Patagonia Road Trip #4 (Torres del Paine)

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300,000,000 Sheep!


That´s how many sheep live here in Argentina! Until now, we´d seen a few random sheep here and there, but hadn´t viewed them en mass. Today we drove through southern Chile on our way to Tierra del Fuego (the southern tip of Argentina......you can´t get there without driving through Chile). It was a sunny, beautiful day and we were cruising along at a pretty decent pace, for the Green Goat that is. We came around the bend and had to slam on the breaks! Suddenly we were surrounded by 8,000 sheep! They were everywhere....on the road, on the sides of the road, making their way who knows where.
PICTURES of Patagonia Road Trip #4 (Torres del Paine)

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Kayaking Plans Foiled Again!


We´re cursed when it comes to kayaking! We´ve made three attempts and all have fallen through for some reason or another. This time it was supposed to work! We arrived in Puerto Natales, Chile, just outside Torres del Paine national park and a fantastic deal on a 3-day kayaking excursion pretty much fell in our laps. We paid, packed, and wóke up at dawn to drive four hours to meet our guides. Seemed like a done deal. Wrong! Our guides showed up and informed us that the two additional people we were supposed to kayak with threw a huge fit when they were told they didn´t have a private trip. So, since they booked first, we got the shaft and were sent on our merry way. Luckily, the weather was perfect, and we were able to spend the rest of the day exploring the stunning national park, with one of the most tremendous waterfalls we´ve ever seen, and camping at the foot of Torres del Paine. All was not lost.

PICTURES of Patagonia Road Trip #4 (Torres del Paine)

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Monday, February 06, 2006

Patagonian Animals Oh My!



These are some of the animals we have seen along the way on our Patagonian drive.

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A new challenge


There’s no better way to look like a completely uncoordinated idiot than by trying a new sport. Fortunately for us, ice climbing turned out to be much easier than we expected, and we quickly looked like pros (ok, maybe not that good, but decent). We spent the third day of our backpacking adventure with an ice climbing guide on Torre Glacier at the foot of Cerro Torre. After our glacier trek we decided to try our hand at the real thing……crampons, ice axes, harnesses, rope, the works! Our day started with a two-hour hike into the glacier, including a river-crossing hanging upside down from our harness. After that, we spent about four hours trying out three different pitches with our guide. One even included an overhang. We’re talking about trying it again in Colorado. But, it’s a little easier to trust your life to a permanent glacier than to a frozen waterfall…… (yes, that is Betsy in that photo!)
View Photos of Patagonia Road Trip #3 (Perito Moreno Glacier Walk, Trekking Cerro Torre & Fitz Roy, and Ice Climing Torre Glacier)

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Keep on Trekkin’


The Perito Moreno Glacier is situated at the south end of Parque National los Glacieres. On the north end are, of course, more glaciers, along with two spectacular famous peaks, Monte Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre. We spent the past four days backpacking around the bases of both. The park is literally a backpacker’s dream. The river water is drinkable, 100% glacier water. The trails are well-maintained, and the campgrounds are pristine. Plus, the entire time you’re staring up at the massive rock slabs at the top of the big peaks. We’re back feeling refreshed after lots of exercise, sunshine and fresh mountain air.
View Photos of Patagonia Road Trip #3 (Perito Moreno Glacier Walk, Trekking Cerro Torre & Fitz Roy, and Ice Climing Torre Glacier)

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Ice Ice Baby


We made our way down south to El Calafate, a small town made famous by its proximity to one of the largest and most impressive glaciers in the world: Glacier Perito Moreno. After a leisurely day in town, we spent our next day on a glacier trek (it sounds hard-core, but in reality any little old lady could have done it). Nevertheless, we felt like we were living in a Discovery Channel Program. Perito Moreno glacier pushes out into two huge lakes, with the walls of ice jutting out nearly 250 feet above the surface and down 500-600 feet to the lake bottom. The best part about visiting the glacier was watching it move before our very eyes. Every few minutes we would hear a loud crack, followed by a chunk of the glacier tumbling into the water below. Four or five times throughout the day we say slabs of ice the size of 20-story buildings sheer off the edge and fall into the water with a massive splash. Later on we’d see the remains floating to the surface as icebergs. Our trek took us by boat across the lake and, with crampons strapped to our feet, onto a relatively flat part of the glacier to see the various peaks and valleys formed in the ice. At the end, they served us whiskey on the rocks (i.e. glacier ice) to celebrate.

Click here to see the glacial calving in action!
View Photos of Patagonia Road Trip #3 (Perito Moreno Glacier Walk, Trekking Cerro Torre & Fitz Roy, and Ice Climing Torre Glacier)

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Monday, January 30, 2006

Earplugs and Gravel:


We’ve taken to wearing earplugs in the car. It’s not that we don’t want to talk to each other (although, after five months of talking to nobody else, a few hours of silence is ok). It’s the combination of a gravel highway and a VW Bug is enough to make your ears ring for days. This is one rugged road trip down “highways” with four inches of loose gravel, with nothing but flat land and sagebrush as far as you can see for days, and wind so strong that your car door is likely to get ripped off if you dared to open it. Thankfully we only have one more long day without pavement ahead of us. After that, we’ve reached Southern Patagonia and all that we’ve been looking forward to seeing: Mt. Fitz Roy, El Calafate, Torres del Paine, Tierra del Fuego, mountains, glaciers, fjords, etc.
Pictures of Patagonia Road Trip #2

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Call Guiness:

Lee’s going down in the all-time rock skipping hall of fame. Out on the edge of the lake, the conditions were perfect. Calm water, super flat rock, and precision throwing. He wound up, let the rock go, and it skipped not once, not even twice, but TEN TIMES along the surface of the water! If you get a moment, make sure you e-mail Lee and congratulate him on his triumph.
Pictures of Patagonia Road Trip #2

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Shoo Fly!!!!!


Well, we’ve added another hike to our list of “never agains”. Our guidebook suggested a day hike to the top of Cerro Alto Dedal, a peak overlooking a good portion of the national park. We set out pretty early knowing it would be a long day. The first two hours of the hike were spent bushwhacking our way through an endless forest of bamboo shoots and thorny bushes so thick that it was like walking through a tunnel. Suddenly, relief……..or so we thought. We had reached the rocky (and plant-free) ridge leading up to the summit. This is where the swarming began. Mutant horse flies the size of quarters!!!! The were incessant….buzzing and circling around our heads, in our ears. We pushed on until the torture was too much. After five hours of hiking we didn’t have anything to show for it.

Pictures of Patagonia Road Trip #2

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Lakefront Property:


Ah, the view from our tent window has been fantastic the past two days. Crystal clear lake with snowcapped peaks surrounding us. We’ve literally been camping right on the edge of the water here in Parque Nacional Los Alerces. We’ve made our way south from the ultra-touristy and very busy Lakes District to Central Patagonia, where the landscape is still fairly similar, but the parks are much less visited. Nonetheless, there is no shortage of Argentine campers. The come out in droves to hang out at the “beach” around the lakes here. Take for example the two little old ladies we came across near our campsite. Each day, with cooler and beach chairs in tow, they stake out a small portion of space near the lake. They spend the entire day alternating between an endless game of dominos and cooling off in the water.

Pictures of Patagonia Road Trip #2

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Wednesday, January 25, 2006

Back in Colorado!



Ok, not really, but we got your attention right! We´re still here in Argentina, but we did climb a peak called Cerro Colorado the other day. It was just outside San Martin de los Andes, and, well, it´s named after our home, so we had to climb it! The peak is just over 5,000 ft., which doesn´t sound like much. But, considering we gained nearly 3,000 feet in under two hours, it was a lot like climbing a 14er! The very summit is all dark red volcanic rock. It´s very striking, especially since not a single other mountain surrounding it looks the same. The view from the top looked out over two huge lakes, and the largest Volcano in the entire area.

Patagonia Road Trip Pictures #1

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Giddi-up


We went horseback riding today! It was a 3-hour trip up to an amazing overlook point above Bariloche, as well as a stop at one of the nearby ski resorts for a snack. Once again, we were reminded of how there are WAY too many rules in the US. Group horseback rides at home generally consist of 10 people, making their way at a snails pace up a tiny path in the mountains. Not here! We literally ran for at least half of the ride! Did it matter that we had hardly any riding experience......of course not! Lee took off like a bat outa hell a few times, in a full-on gallop!
Patagonia Road Trip Pictures #1

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7 Lagos


After one extremely long and boring day driving through the seemingly endless desert, we officially arrived in the Lakes District of Argentina - a lush, mountainous region spotted with huge crystal clear alpine lakes. We started off by staying a night in a town called San Martin de los Andes. We think that Estes Park has been cloned and placed in South America. The two towns are extremely similar. On the whole, this entire region looks a lot like Colorado. Funny thing is, there´s MORE snow here during the summer, but the elevation is less than Denver! From San Martin, we spent two days working our way down the famous ¨Siete Lagos Route¨(translation: seven lakes), a beautiful drive through the curvy mountain roads with incredible vistas overlooking the lakes. Finally, we arrived in Bariloche, the famed ¨Switerland of the Andes¨. It´s quite a bit bigger than we envisioned, With hotel after hotel after hotel, but the views are some of the best we´ve ever seen.
Patagonia Road Trip Pictures #1

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Home Sweet Tent


We´ve decided to trade in hostels and hotels for our tent for the next month on the road. We´ve camped all but one night since we left and are loving it. It´s a much better alternative to sleep in our own tent and own sleeping bags than in sketchy bug-infested hostels. We even bought a little camp shower so we can be clean along the way! Our first couple nights on the road were a bit rough, however. Our vision of ¨just pitching a tent whenever we got tired of driving¨dissolved when we realized that nearly every road has fences on both sides. We ended up spending one night in a bizzare drainage ditch in the desert and another on the bank of a river next to a field of cows. Luckily, it´s been all uphill since then. Argentina has thousands of public campgrounds. It´s hardly what you would call roughing it in the wilderness (many have electricity, showers, etc.), but at least we´re sleeping outdoors. Argentines ¨camping¨experience isn´t a whole lot different than just hanging out in your own backyard. Nonetheless, we´re loving it so far, and making truly gourmet campfire dinners each night!
Patagonia Road Trip Pictures #1

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The Green Goat


We´ve officially changed the name of our car from the Green Machine to the Green Goat. It´s much more appropriate. When we take off from a stopped position, the car makes a loud sound that is eerily similar the ehhehhehh sound that goats make. Only a week into our road trip and we´re already starting to superglue parts and pieces of our little vehicle together. We may have a shell of a car left by the time we make our way back up to Buenos Aires, but as long as we make it, that´s all that matters to us.

Patagonia Road Trip Pictures #1

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Friday, January 20, 2006

La Vida Mendocino


Before we take off from Mendoza, I thought I´d write a bit about the typical day in the life of a ¨Mendocino¨(person from Mendoza). Typcially, they start their day at an outdoor cafe with some unbelievable coffee, and at least two media lunas (spanish for croissants). After a leisurely breakfast they head to work, usually by bus or on foot through the tree-lines streets. By noon or 1pm, it´s time for lunch and another cafe with friends or co-workers. After that, it´s the best part of the day......siesta time! The world pretty much stops functioning here between the hours of 1pm and 6pm. Stores close, streets are quiet, everyone just goes home and relaxes for a few hours. After that, it´s time for mate! In Argentina, there´s a fourth meal each day. Around 5pm, you have a snack, maybe a couple more medialunas and share a maté with your friends. Maté is the national drink, a really strong tea similar to green tea. Evenings are typically spent hanging out at the park or in one of the cities many green plazas. Dinner is NEVER before 10pm (believe me, we tried to eat around 7 once and the chef wasn´t even at work yet!). Home around midnight or one to start it all over again the next day. Ahhhhh, what a wonderful stress-free place to live for a while!

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On the Road Again

After a thoroughly LAZY week here in Mendoza, we´re movin´ on again. Our apartment is cleared out, the maquina verde is packed to the gills and we´re well stocked with the essential road-trip provisions like spare tires, maps, and lots of junk food. First stop on our month-long adventure is the Lakes District in the Andes. Our days on the road shouldn´t be too long. We´ve left plenty of time for camping, hiking, and just stopping to see the sights. So long Mendoza! Thanks for a fun month!

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Sunday, January 15, 2006

Triumph on Aconcagua!



The picture says it all, we made it to the summit of Aconcagua! I don´t even know where to begin to describe the trip, it was definitely in the top 5 most difficult things I´ve ever done during my life. We survived 3 straight days of 80mph winds at 19,000ft Camp II to finally arrive at the suffocating elevation of 22,841 ft above sea level at 1pm on Wednesday the 11th of January. The trip was full of unique mountaineering challenges as well as fun times. We are extremely happy with the result of our expedition, and now we are glad to be back in Mendoza eating good food and drinking wine! Of course, I am most excited to be back with my beautiful wife after over 2 weeks of no contact whatsoever. For those of you who are interested in the particulars of the trip, I´ll try to add a detailed account to this blog entry at a later date. I will also be posting pictures with descriptive captions to give you an idea of what it was like up there. For now, I wanted to let you know we made it and are home safe. Hope everyone is doing great back home, and we can´t wait to see you soon. Lee

Lee´s Aconcagua Photos
Brandon´s Aconcagua Photos
Rob´s Aconcagua Photos

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Wednesday, January 11, 2006

One more day to go!

The countdown is almost complete! Lee´s been away for nearly two weeks now on his mountain climbing adventures, and he should be home in the next day or so. I´m on pins and needles waiting to hear how the climb went. Life´s been pretty quiet, and actually ´routine´around here for me, which is a welcome change from 4 months of constant travel. After nearly a week of feeling crumby, I finally recovered!

I´ve really enjoyed my last three weeks of Spanish school, and have learned so much Spanish. Right now it´s one big jumble of verb tenses mixed up in my head, but hopefully if I keep studying on my own I´ll be able to sort it out a little more. I´ve been taking part in lots of the school activities like salsa lessons, cooking classes, winery tours, etc. Other than that I´ve just been living like a ´mendocino´ and hanging out at the park, drinking tea and wine at little cafes, and practicing lots and lots of Spanish. The other day I actually successfully gave someone directions to a restaurant I was familiar with. I was very proud of myself!

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Monday, January 02, 2006

Happy Birthday to.........Me!

Yay! It´s my birthday! So what the heck am I doing writing a blog entry? Well, I figured since I can´t actually talk to anyone this year (literally, because Lee´s gone climbing and everyone around me speaks Spanish), I thought I´d write you all a little note. It´s been a relatively bland day as far as birthdays go. Really though, how exciting should 27 be anyway? Woo-hoo.....I´ve reached my late 20s!!!!! But I honestly can´t complain because a) I´m finally feeling like a human once again, b) I´m spending my birthday in Argentina and that´s just cool, c) I am a firm believer that birthday´s are not just one day. You have a right to celebrate for the whole month of your birthday, d) I just went shopping and bought myself a few presents, and e) every single day of the past 4 months has been a special day, and way better than most birthdays at home anyway! Now, I´m heading home because I´m once again a student and have homework to do. Hope you all survived your first day back to work after the holiday weekend!

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Saturday, December 31, 2005

Counting spots on the walls

Uuuuggghhh. That´s all I have to say. It´s New Year´s Eve and I have the flu! So, I was ok with the fact that I was going to be alone at midnight, and even had plans to go out with some school friends........until I got incredibly sick with the flu. I´ve been laying in bed for nearly 3 days now. I´d finally had enough of staring at the walls of our tiny apartment, and watching the Simpsons in Spanish so I rolled myself out of bed and practically crawled to the internet cafe, where I sit writing this blog now.

I hope that everyone has a great time celebrating tonight! Happy 2006. I will be living vicariously through you!

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Ready, set, climb!

Well, the boys are off for their climb! Lee, and his two buddies Brandon and Rob took off on Thursday evening to take on the highest peak in South America, Aconcagua. They spent an incredibly hectic two days getting organized. Imagine trying to pack over two weeks worth of food and gear for a 23,000 foot peak! But, they were ready in time for the shuttle to pick them up. They were planning to spend Thursday and Friday nights acclimatizing in a town near the mountain. Today (saturday) is supposed to be their first day hiking. If all goes well, it will take them 12 or 13 days to finish, bringing them back two weeks from today. I´m sure they will have tons of stories and pictures when they return. For now, you´ll just be getting my reports from Mendoza. Keep them in your thoughts and prayers for the next two weeks.

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Hola! Como estas? Me llamo Betsy.

I started Spanish school this week! For four hours a day I´m taking classes. No other beginner level students signed up this week so I have private lessons. I figure I´ve already taken the equivalent of over a month worth of classes at home. It´s amazing how quickly you catch on when EVERYTHING is in Spanish. I have two weeks left and I can´t wait to see how much further I progress! My school is great. They offer a home-cooked lunch every day, and little field trips every afternoon, to wineries, on city tours, to the pool, etc.

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Countdown to Christmas

Wow, they do Christmas BIG here in Argentina. Really, they kinda put us to shame. It´s one big party here on Christmas Eve night. Lee and I bought tickets to a Christmas dinner at a local restaurant. Since Argentina is a ridiculously late-night place, we arrived at 9:30 for the festivities. The restaurant was asada, asada, and more asada (barbeque). They had massive buffets EVERYWHERE. We were served champagne, dessert, the works. Later, a somewhat cheesy, although entertaining, singer took over the room. People started getting up and dancing all around us! Suddenly, they started counting down from 10 to 1. Why? It was midnight! It was Christmas. Everyone was partying and celebrating everywhere. When we left the restaurant, the streets were packed with kids setting off fire crackers, and families still engrossed in the holiday festivities. It was fantastic!

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Lifestyles of the Hoffmans

As a wedding gift, several of our friends back home pooled their money and gave us one night stay at the Park Hyatt Hotel in Mendoza. We figured, what better time than Christmas to take advantage of our girft? So, we moved into our room on Friday night (the 23rd). We had a fantastic view of the pool and the park, a huge bathroom, the works. We both got Thai massages, from two thai masseurs none the less, that evening. Since the hotel is in the very center of the city, we spent the evening relaxing and wandering around town. The next morning, after a massive room-service breakfast, we headed back to our ´reality´ in our tiny little apartment. Thanks to everyone for such a fantastic wedding (and Christmas!) gift.

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Wednesday, December 28, 2005

Wish Me Luck!



Brandon and Rob are here in Mendoza now and we just finished getting our climbing permit for Aconcagua! The climb startes saturday at 8,000ft. If all goes well, we summit 11 days later at an altitude of 22,841 feet above sea level. Aconcagua is the highest mountain peak outside of the Himilayas. We are arranging the expedition ourselves, with all of our own food, fuel, gear, tents, etc.. So wish us luck, this will be an enormous undertaking. I´ll be thinking of all of my friends and family back home, and Betsy back in Mendoza (drinking wine and enjoying the warm sun after spanish school each day). We will of course be safe and smart, and will give it our best effort. Talk to you all in 2-1/2 weeks back in Mendoza. Much love, Lee

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Friday, December 23, 2005

Cabernets and merlots and malbecs, oh my!


Today we spent the day in wine country. Here in Mendoza, there are dozens of wineries within only a few miles of the city. In minutes, we were out of the traffic and noise, and cruising down the sunny, tree-lined streets gazing out at miles upon miles of vineyards. The wineries here are really relaxed, and almost all are open to the public. Today we visited four different wineries where we received a private tour and wine tasting for free (always a bonus!). Our last stop was a place where they make fresh chocolates, and almost every type of flavored liqueur you can imagine……chocolate, coconut cream, tangerine, banana. Our wine cellar and liquor cabinet (a.k.a. our kitchenette counter and mini closet) are well-stocked after today!
PICTURES OF MENDOZA & WINE TOUR

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Land-o-supermodels:


In addition to the expectant mothers that abound here, the vast majority of the population in Argentina is unbelievably gorgeous. Guys, girls, kids, everyone. Physically perfect. Doesn’t do much for your self-esteem as a tourist hanging out here, but it’s good people-watching!
PICTURES OF MENDOZA & WINE TOUR

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Babies, babies, babies:


Never, ever in our lives have we ever been to a place with more EXTREMELY pregnant women. Literally, every 3rd person you pass on the street has a giant belly protruding from her little tank top and stretch pants. Forget maternity clothes here…..the whole mommy-to-be belly is just out there. Is there something in the water? Is it the abundance of very large Catholic families? It’s a mystery to us!
PICTURES OF MENDOZA & WINE TOUR

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Settling in:


For the first time since July, we have a home again! We’ve been on the move nearly every day for four months and we’re now settled down for a full month in a cozy little studio apartment in Mendoza, Argentina. Mendoza is a city of nearly 1 million people, situated in between the Argentine wine country and the Andes (Aconcagua, which Lee will be climbing, can be seen from the city). It’s a bustling, beautiful city with giant trees lining every street, providing much-needed shade from the summer sun. Our apartment is just on the edge of the city center, making it convenient to get downtown, but quiet and laid-back at the same time. We’re so happy to be able to just kick back, watch the world go by…..and even watch some TV since our apartment has cable! Lee’s anxiously awaiting his climb next week, and Betsy will start 3 weeks of Spanish classes on Monday.
PICTURES OF MENDOZA & WINE TOUR

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Adventures in Border-Crossing:


Purchasing our car in Chile was two full weeks of paperwork, bureaucracy, some really helpful people, some very unhelpful people, and lots of people telling us ‘foreigners can’t buy cars’. Nonetheless, we successfully got the car, insurance, title, registration, etc. etc. etc. Crossing the border from Chile back into Argentina was a true nail-biting experience in itself, however. As suspected, when we pulled up to the border patrol, the Chilean officials lived up to our expectations by firmly stating that ‘foreigners can’t buy cars’. Lee, with his now excellent Spanish negotiation skills, bravely stood up to the oh-so-important people and argued that we had all of the required documents to own a car so we must, in fact, be the owners. A bit baffled at us, the border patrol agreed and, alas, we were finally back in Argentina again!

PICTURES OF DRIVING FROM SANTIAGO, CHILE TO MENDOZA, ARGENTINA

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Thursday, December 22, 2005

Feliz Navidad From Argentina!



We wanted to take the chance to wish everyone at home a very, very Merry Christmas. We hope you all have a wonderful weekend filled with food, family, friends and lots of celebration. We will be thinking of you all from down here in Mendoza, Argentina. No white Christmas for us.....it´s about 95 degrees here! But, we´re looking forward to spending our first married Christmas together! Merry Christmas and God Bless everyone. - Betsy & Lee

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Tuesday, December 20, 2005

La Casa Azul:


‘The Blue House’ is where we stayed this weekend in the tiny beach town of Isla Negra. Similar to the place we lived in Santiago, La Casa Azul is a little house with 3 or 4 bedrooms, which the owner rents out to travelers. Only, in this case, the owner was out of town and a great couple from Alaska was running the place for a week or so. (apparently they’d been asked to ‘house-sit’, but not informed that the place was actually a hostel!). Nonetheless, we enjoyed a wonderful, lazy couple of days and lots of wine each night in the little house tucked into the woods, only minutes from the beach. We knew we had to take advantage of seeing the Chilean coast at least once while we were here and it’s been well worth it. The waves crash up on the shore like none other we’ve seen. It’s absolutely stunning. And, the weather has been surprisingly cool, a lot like northern California.

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We’re outta here…..finally!

Well, it took nearly two full weeks of endlessly long days in Santiago but the car is finally ours. Although transferring the title was a bit trying, between trying to purchase the car from a lunatic of a woman who was treating us like we were complete morons, to witnessing an equally crazy man trying to out-maneuver the bouncers at the DMV and enter the office after it was closed. It was a whirlwind, but, alas, the car is now officially ours and we’re going to the beach!

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Is THIS art?


Who defines what is considered “art”, primarily when it pertains to so-called “contemporary” art? We would really like to have a word with this person because we think his standards for entry into the art category are slightly off-base. Today we had a full day to kill so we decided to make our way over to the contemporary art museum in Santiago we’d been anxiously awaiting to see. After walking for well over an hour, we finally came upon the historic, colonial-style building that housed the exhibits. Little did we know that the ‘art’ we were about to pay $4 each to see, was really just a bunch of used trash that was strategically placed in several huge, stark white rooms. No, that is not an exaggeration at all. The rooms were literally filled with big trash bags, some cardboard, black innertubes, etc. The main corridors were covered in graffiti. The one room that actually had photos on display looked like someone’s extremely bad 1970s photo album. Now, we’re both art fans, and understand that every artist has a vision for their work, but somehow we seemed to miss the vision of every single exhibit in this particular museum.

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A symphony on the road:


As we drive through the Chilean streets in our new little maquina verde, a distinct, familiar sound seems to follow us wherever we go. The high-pitched shrieking of each an every car alarm within a 10-foot radius of where we’re driving. The low-pitch rumble of our engine is apparently enough to intimidate even the toughest of cars!

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Monday, December 12, 2005

What we’ve learned about Chile & Chileans so far


They are extremely friendly, gracious and welcoming. The eat a LOT of ice cream…….every day. There’s graffiti everywhere – even in really nice parts of town. They spend their weekend days at public parks outside the city barbequing, swimming, hanging out. Christmas shopping is as big a phenomenon here as it is at home. They don’t believe in taking right hand turns in the city, it’s left or nothing. They’re into camping and hiking just like Coloradoans. Nobody ever caries change with them. Security guards at Wal-Mart type stores wear bullet-proof vests, but not outside government buildings. Cost of living is just as much here as it is at home. All houses are surrounded by large fences with locked gates, even in small mountain towns. That’s a bit of what we’ve learned so far, but there’ll be much more to come for sure.
PICTURES OF SANTIAGO, CHILE

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The Devil´s Cellar


We saw ‘el diablo’ today. Where does he live? In a Chilean wine cellar of course! This afternoon we went on a tour of the Concho y Toro winery – the largest in South America. Back in the mid-1800s, the original wine-maker brought a particular vine back to Chile from Italy. Realizing his wine was particularly good, he hid it deep within his wine cellar outside of Santiago. Word of his “stash” traveled fast and local villagers began stealing the barrels out of his cellar. So, crafty fella that he was, the winemaker started telling the superstitious villagers that the devil lived in his cellar. Before long, the wine stopped disappearing, and stories about the devil cellar spread across the land!!
PICTURES OF WINE TOUR AND BANOS MORALES

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Finally on our own to explore


After 3 months of buses, taxis, trains and airplanes, we finally have our own transportation! We left the city for a weekend getaway to the mountains outside Santiago, and put our little ‘Maquina Verde’ to the test. With Lee’s stellar driving skills, we made it through our mini road trip with no problems…..aside from the fact that in greater Santiago, they don’t see any need for lanes to be painted on the roads. So, you just have to guess which lane people are in! We ended up last night in a tiny town at the base of some of the largest peaks in the Andes, called Banos Morales. After a morning of hiking in the nearby national park we felt right at home! It’s amazing how just being in the mountains is an instant stress-reliever for both of us.
PICTURES OF WINE TOUR AND BANOS MORALES

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Introducing……Maquina Verde!!!


It’s our ‘Green Machine’, and it rocks! We are the proud new owners (almost – we’re short a couple of documents and a few hundred dollars) of a forest green 1998 Volkswagon Beetle. Seriously, this car is incredible. A bit more than we intended to spend, but it’s SO worth it! We’ve got power windows, keyless entry, a working stereo, leather (ok, maybe they’re vinyl) seats, the works!!! We bought the car from a mechanic who just tuned it up from top to bottom. The best part is, he is willing to buy it back from us at the end of our trip for nearly full price. Provided we keep it in good shape, we’ve got a free car for the next few months!
PICTURES OF SANTIAGO, CHILE

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Thursday, December 08, 2005

Scott’s House: our home away from home



We’ve made our way to Santiago in search of a vehicle to buy and are staying at Scott’s house. It’s literally a 5 or 6 bedroom house, owned by an American guy named Scott, in a relatively seedy neighborhood of Santiago. When we arrived at the gated home, there was no sign outside, or any indication that this might be a hostel. Nonetheless, we rang the doorbell and were greeted by a little girl…followed by her mother (Scott’s wife/girlfriend/mother of his child) who showed us to our room. Turns out, the infamous Scott has turned his little hostel into the mecca for foreigners to purchase cars in Chile. He knows mechanics, interpreters, paperwork – anything we need to know. In fact, there are 3 other Americans staying here right now doing the exact same thing as us. So, although the place is a little quirky, Scott’s a huge help and hopefully we’ll be Chilean car owners in no time!
PICTURES OF SANTIAGO, CHILE

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How to survive customs at the Argentina/Chile Border

If you plan to cross the border between Argentina and Chile, plan to bring along a long book. War and Peace perhaps. There’s a very good chance that you will finish it while you wait. Oh, and be prepared as well with extra change. If nature calls and you don’t have any coins, you’re out of luck until you cross the border. Expect to enjoy lots of paperwork and long lines as you have to talk to one person to leave Argentina, another to enter Chile and yet another to go through each and every bag (drug sniffing dogs and all) before you’re permitted to go along your merry way. Gee, we can’t wait to go back across again next week!
PICTURES OF BUENOS AIRES
PICTURES OF SANTIAGO, CHILE

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It’s great to know the locals!


Once again, Lee’s international friends have helped make our trip a little easier, and much more enjoyable! Rosana, whom Lee met while trekking in Peru, is a local of B.A. She met us at the airport and showed us two fantastic days around the city. Day one was a marathon tour of the city’s highlights – the views, the restaurants, the architecture, the shopping……the works!! We were exhausted by the end. Day two was a visit to her house to meet her wonderful and gracious family and a trip to a local Sunday market with live music, dancing, treats and Argentine crafts. Thanks Rosana for showing us how the locals live!!!
PICTURES OF BUENOS AIRES

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Getting from A to B

In a city as large as B.A., notable areas are bound to be fairly spread out. Most people choose to make their way around via the bus system. As a wedding gift (Thanks Sean!) we received an intricate book about the nearly 200 buses that weave around the city. Even with the help of our handy book, getting around is a challenge and we set out by foot to do most the exploring.
PICTURES OF BUENOS AIRES

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Shall we Dance?


You just can’t spend time in Buenos Aires and avoid the calling to learn the tango. (we’ll give you one guess who’s writing this entry). Portenos (inhabitants of B.A.) are extremely proud of the sultry dance that they invented and made famous throughout the world. It started in early 20-century bordellos and evolved into a much-loved Argentine tradition. Postcards and paintings around the city celebrate the art form and clubs offer nightly classes and shows. We’ve even seen several impromptu performances in the squares or pedestrian malls within the city.
PICTURES OF BUENOS AIRES

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Where’s the Beef?

It’s here in Argentina, that’s where! Honestly, it’s the best we’ve ever had. Betsy, not much of a red meat eater herself, had a steak that was absolutely to die for. Lee, a true carnivore and meat-lover, gave it his unwavering seal of approval as well. And, with meals for around $5 US, it sure beats Morton’s or any of the other fancy-schmancy steak houses at home! Oh, and in our decidedly non-connoisseur opinions, the Malbecs from Argentina put all other wine to shame!
PICTURES OF BUENOS AIRES

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Don’t Cry for Me Argentina


Today we saw Eva Peron, better known as Evita. Ok, so we didn’t actually see her. We saw her grave, along with hundreds of other tombs and monuments to notable Argentines in history. We visited one of Buenos Aires most famous and distinguished cemeteries – covering an entire city block. The cobblestone paths take you through row after row of graves – some old and dilapidated, some like mini churches, but all equally impressive and ornate. Sounds a little creepy to hang out in a cemetery, but it was actually very beautiful.

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Mix and Match City


Ahhhhh, beautiful Buenos Aires. Combine the architecture of London, the style of Paris, the wine and cuisine of Milan, the nightlife of Miami , the culture and art of San Francisco and you’ve got Buenos Aires. This clean, relatively safe, bustling metropolis is home to nearly 13 million of the world’s most stunningly gorgeous people (and, apparently the top plastic surgery and psychotherapy addicts as well). Comprised of 48 barrios (neighborhoods), each with its own distinct flavor. When you cross the border from one barrio to the next, it’s like entering an entirely different city. We liked it so much, in fact, that we – two of the least ‘city’ people around – can’t wait to get back and spend more time here. The best part about it……we blend in! Even blond-haired, fair-skinned Betsy was approached numerous times by people asking for directions, etc.
PICTURES OF BUENOS AIRES

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Chop Chop Choppers Everwhere:


Over our last few weeks, we’ve become strangely accustomed to the sound of helicopters overhead. The whirring, thumping noise starts about 9am each day and continues until mid-afternoon. They come for various reasons. Sometimes it’s to rescue people who are sick from the altitude, injured on the trail, or any other number of reasons. Other times it’s a group of wealthy travelers who prefer to take the easy way in to catch the views of the world’s highest peaks rather than rough it with us lowly trekkers. One day, on our way down from Base Camp, in the village of Tengboche, a helicopter came out of nowhere and landed just a few feet from us. No warning at all. It just dropped down from the sky, kicked up enormous clouds of dust, dropped off about 10 Japanese tourists, and went off on its way again.
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Our Amazing Marathon Day:


Little did we know when we woke up this morning that we would become the guinea pigs for our trekking guide. Here we were, in a tiny Himalayan trekking village, about to reach our two goals for our time here: Everest Base Camp (17,100 ft) and Mt. Kallapathar (18,100 ft.). Typically, people take two days to accomplish this task. Day 1 up to Kallapathar for the world’s best view of Mt. Everest, and Day 2 to Base Camp for an up close look at the famed Khumbu Ice Falls. We left at about 6 am for Kallapathar. We were feeling great and the weather was perfect. Our guide saw this as the perfect opportunity to try something new and go to base camp the same day. It would be easy, he told us. We would just take a short cut across to base camp, and then head back to town. It would only add a couple hours onto our day, right? WRONG. Little did we know but our ‘trusty’ guide had never attempted this before. What was supposed to be a ‘shortcut’ took us nearly all the way back to town. Our day began with breakfast at 6am, and didn’t end until nearly 6 pm. The only food we brought along was one measly Snickers bar that we had to split around mid-day. Our water lasted us half that long. It was easily the most grueling and physically demanding days we’ve experienced. But, despite our hunger and exhaustion, we made it. It’s amazing how far your body can go when you push yourself. And, it was probably among the most memorable days of our lives. To see the top of the world with your own eyes…….to stand at the base of Mt. Everest is an experience beyond words. Was it difficult? Yes. Did we love it? Definitely.
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The Khumbu Cough:


Hack, hack hack. Cough, cough, cough. Hack hack. Ahhhh, the musical sounds of a trekker in the Everest region. Combine several days in sub-freezing, dry air at elevations well above 14,000 feet with dusty, dirty trails and germs from trekkers around the globe and what do you get? The ‘Khumbu Cough’: a dry, hacking and relentless cough that attacks 60% of all travelers to this region…….including Betsy.
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Now this is more like it


After nearly 3 weeks of clouds and snow, we’ve made it to the Everest Region. Here, the sun has shined nearly every day. And the views…….you are literally looking straight up at all the massive peaks that surround you. The Everest Region, compared to Annapurna, is distinctly more dramatic. The mountain range is stunning, with shear cliffs and massive glaciers everywhere you look – from day one in Lukla. And then there’s Mt. Everest. What more can we say? We spent the better part of our trek here looking at the highest point on earth. For a couple of mountain-lovers, you can’t get much better than that.
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We’re gonna crash!!!!!!!


Flying into the village of Lukla, on your way to the Everest Region, is not for the faint of heart. From our little 15-seater prop plane, we had two views: one from our side window, and another out the front window. We took off from Kathmandu airport and headed east, with the spectacular mountain range on the left side of the plane. Suddenly, we took a sharp turn to the left, heading directly into a tiny little canyon. And then again, another sharp turn to the right, this time nose-first into the side of a mountain. The only thing there to catch us was the unusually short and peculiarly steep little runway belonging to the Lukla airport. While flying in was an adventure, flying out was pure terror. You take off down the mini runway, gaining speed as you prepare to launch off the side of the cliff. Get enough lift, you’re golden and you sail straight out from the mountain. If not, you take the plunge thousands of feet into the ravine below. Fortunately, we made it through both flights in one piece and spared ourselves nearly a month of walking from Kathmandu in the process.
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It’s a man’s world:

Throw all your Western notions about feminism and equality out the window if you travel to Nepal. Such things do not exist here. Men rule families, businesses and governments. Marriages are virtually all arranged, without the consultation or consent of the female. Once married, a women is expected to fully submit to her husband. He decides when she will have children, and how many. When she cooks a meal for her husband, she must wait until he is done eating, then she can eat whatever is left over. With more and more outside influence, times are slowly changing in Nepal. More and more women are furthering their educations, getting jobs, etc. But it will likely take several decades for women to gain the same rights as men, if they ever do…….
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The Silver Screen, Nepali Style:

Forget the new-fangled 24-plex movie ‘super-theaters’ with stadium seating and in-seat speakers. Manang (a little trekkers village at about 12,000 feet in elevation) has unequivocally the best movie theater in the world. Two films run continuously: ‘Seven Years in Tibet’ and ‘Into thin Air’ (we chose the latter). Forget central heating, a tiny propane heater and a down jacket provide plenty of warmth to get you through the film. Seating consists of four tiers of covered in nothing less than the finest yak fur. There’s even a little Nepali man cooking fresh popcorn on a stove in the back!
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The Communist Manifesto:


Our experience in Nepal made us appreciate our life in America in more ways than one. For many Nepalis, life is difficult, money is scarce, and the country is in a state of turmoil. Currently, the Maoist (Communist) Party is trying to gain enough power and support to overthrow the existing government. Their method of building credibility is less than honorable, however. Party members use lies, force, coercion, bribery, extortion, and sheer brutality to “win over” the poor and uneducated villagers and expand the influence of the Maoist movement. Although they pose no immediate threat to tourists and trekkers, the Maoists realize that Westerners are a virtual gold mine and source of funding to their cause. They take full advantage of their brutal reputation and power of intimidation by forcing trekkers to pay a fee at strategic locations along the trails. Savvy business people that they are, the Maoists provide paying tourists with a receipt, good for one full year. The Nepali government has full knowledge of the Maoist’s extortion, but does little or nothing to stop them.
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The View at Sunrise:


On any normal day, getting up at 4:30 am, before the sun has even thought about rising, is a hellish experience. Today was different. We were looking forward to one of the best views of our entire life from the top of ‘Poon Hill’. With vigor and energy (and lots of warm clothes) we set out on the trail for the climb hour from the village of Gorapani. We reached the crest of the hill by dawn, just as the sun’s first rays were reaching up to illuminate some of the Himalaya’s highest and most impressive peaks: Annapurna South, Manasulu, Machapuchre (Fish Tail Mountain), Dulugiri and more. We sat for nearly two hours, in awe (along with about 150 other trekkers) of the sheer scale of the peaks in front of us. After nearly three weeks of trekking through clouds, rain, sleet and snow, we FINALLY saw the massive mountain ranges we’d been waiting for. And discovered that it was truly worth the wait.
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Are You a Pothead Focker?


The landscape is diverse in the Annapurna region, with everything from countryside farming villages to steep and rugged valley’s to……..fields of marijuana. Yes, that’s right. Pot grows, well, like weeds in Nepal. And we’re not talking about little plants. We’re talking tall-as-trees marijuana plants growing wild and lining the trails at the lower elevations. Hence, Nepal’s cities are filled with colorful characters creeping out of the shadows at every turn trying to sell you “hashish”.
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The Odd Couple:


Our trekking “team” in Nepal consisted of Betsy, Lee, our guide Siba and our porter Ram. Siba and Ram combined were the perfect juxtaposition of the ‘old world’ and ‘new generation’ in the country. Siba, a quiet, reserved, family man in his mid-30s, spends 6 months of the year guiding Westerners like us through the Himalayas. The other 6 months he spends in his tiny village, working as a farmer. Siba worries endlessly the Nepal is losing its rich culture and tradition and taking on far too many Western traits.
At 24, Ram is hungry for as much Western influence as he can get his hands on. He’s a ladies man – always looking for the next pretty girl to show his some attention. Sports and Internet rule his world. A constant source of entertainment for us, we often get a good laugh recalling Ram’s infamous line: “I am very good (insert just about any subject here)”.
Needless to say, the two of them made our trip around Annapurna very memorable. We were like one little odd family for nearly 3 weeks.
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Donkey Land Mines:

In the US, products are transported via our intricate highway system and corporate trucking companies. In Nepal, a place where villages are only accessible by foot, animals are the main delivery system. In the Annapurna region, hundreds of donkeys make their way up and down the trails, carrying everything from beer to oats to people. For us trekkers, they leave behind lovely little surprises for us to step in about every two feet. We split our time between looking at the views, and keeping our eyes fixed on the trail to avoid the land mines.
In the Everest region, yaks carry the loads. Well, it’s actually a cross between a cow and a yak. (did you know, by the way, that a female yak is a nak?). Just a tip: if you need to pass a yak on a trail, make sure you stay on the UPHILL side. Yaks are very big, and they’re not afraid to push you over if you’re in their way!
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A day in the Life of a Trekker:

The typical day on a trek begins somewhere around 6 am, sleeping is a “teahouse” – a small hotel in a mountain village. Tea houses usually have around 10-20 rooms with a shared bathroom, a dining room and, if you’re lucky, hot water showers and an outside garden. Morning routine consists of rolling out of bed, getting dressed, and stuffing all our stuff back into our packs for the day, and heading down for breakfast and the stunning morning views (they’re always the best in the morning when it’s sunny and crystal clear). All teahouses have virtually the same menu, from which we order as much food as we’d like three meals per day as part of our “trekking package”. Lee, in particular has been taking advantage of this and often orders two or three meals at once. Breakfast, for us, is usually oatmeal with fruit and coffee (Nescafe). By 8am we’re on the trail. From there, it’s usually up and down and up and down until mid-morning when we all take a break for some tea and stop to enjoy the view. Another couple of hours and it’s lunchtime at a new teahouse. You need to stop for lunch well before you feel hungry, because it takes at least one hour for the food to be prepared. Lunch for us could be pasta, could be pizza, or Lee’s new favorite – Momos (kind of like a potsticker). Back to the trail for another couple hours and until we reach our destination for the evening. By 1-2pm (in Annapurna particularly), the clouds spring up, the snowcapped peaks disappear for the day, and it’s time for us to pull our the puffy coats and hats. We spend the afternoon playing chess, reading, looking around the villages, playing with the little local kids, joining in a local volleyball match, watching the other trekkers roll into town, or really just zoning out until dinner time. Bedtimes falls in the wee hours of 7 or 8 pm, and that’s not even an exaggeration. Late nights don’t exist on a trek, especially since we only have electricity every 5 days or so. The next day, we do it all over again!
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For Better or Worse

We made it! We successfully wrapped up our 18-day trek in Nepal – the first of two treks we have planned. All in all, it was a fantastic adventure. There was, however, a black cloud that seemed to follow us throughout out journey…..a chain reaction of unfortunate events that made the trip interesting to say the least. First came Lee’s ankle: a mysterious injury we believe occurred back in China that makes it impossible to wear his hiking boots. So, instead of his $300 hiking boots, Lee’s been sporting bottom-of-the-line adidas running shoes over miles of rock, snow, sleet, rain and mud. Next, came the snow – six feet of it. We’ve told you that story already. Then came a recurrence of tendonitis in Betsy’s Achilles tendon, which caused her to loosen her boot laces, which caused her to jam all of her toes on the way back DOWN the mountain in the slush. Next, Lee started getting bizarre night sweats to where he stopped sleeping in his sleeping bag altogether. Around day 12, Betsy got a horrendous cold and she’s been hacking up a lung ever since. Along with all this came a broken camera, another strained foot muscle, dogs barking incessantly throughout the night, snoring neighbors, an Italian nemesis, the list goes on. But enough about the bad stuff. It only makes us stronger. We also had a great time and are about to embark on trek #2.
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Wednesday, December 07, 2005

Stories from Nepal soon to come!!

Since we had little to no internet access while we were in Nepal, we weren´t able to share all of our fun stories with everyone while we were there. So, we´re posting them now. We figured it´s better late than never. Stay tuned for the recap of our Himalayan adventure!

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Sunday, November 13, 2005

Nepal: Quick Facts From The Trail


- Lee & Betsy spent 5 full continuous days above 14,000ft in the Everest Region

- A Yak is a male, but did you know a female is actually called a Nak?

- We reached the summit of Kala Pattar on Nov 10th. This is 18,200ft high. At this altitude there is less than 50% oxygen of sea level.

- We hiked over 200 miles in 18 days in the Anapurna Region.

- A porter carries up to 70lbs and is paid about $3 per day.

- Everest Base Camp (17,160ft) is actually located on top of the Khumbu Glacier. There is nothing there more than the wreckage of 2 helicopters and piles of rocks.

- We estimate that less than 40% of trekkers actually are successful in making it to Kala Patthar due to injury and acute mountain sickness.

- Lee hiked 28 of 31 days in Nepal in tennis shoes and sandals due to an deep bone bruise on the ankle that prevented him from wearing boots.

- In the high Himilaya people burn Yak dung in their stoves to heat their houses since no trees can survice at that altitude. Yak dung is of course primarily grass.

- Mt. Everest is called Sagarmatha in Nepali, which means "Mother Earth". It is 29,035ft high.

Nepal Photos #1
Nepal Photos #2
Nepal Photos #3
Nepal Photos #4
Nepal Photos #5
Nepal Photos #6

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Saturday, November 12, 2005

Back to the "lowlands" again...


We made it!!! We actually saw the top of the world with our own eyes. It was so amazing.. But, mainly we wanted to let everyone know we are back down to the lowlands again (12,000ft if you can call that "low" heheh). We made it to our final destination of Kala Patthar and Everest Base Camp. Kala Patthar is 18,100 ft and is the viewpoint for the whole Khumbu Glacier, Everest Icefalls, Mt. Everest and Nuptse. INCREDIBLE!! We also visited base camp which is at 17,160ft and is actually on the Khumbu Glacier. Just wanted to let everyone know we were successful, and are back safely! See you in less than a week (if you are in Colorado that is).
Love, Lee & Betsy

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Thursday, November 03, 2005

Anapurna II


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Poon Hill Views





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Tuesday, October 25, 2005

6 Feet of Snow in 48 Hours - Avalanches Galore!



Just in case any of you have monitoring the news with a fine tooth comb, we wanted to give you a personal update to let you know that we are alive and well here in Nepal. We just got back from 10 days on the trail on the Anapurna Circuit, a loop that takes you through some of the highest peaks in the world. The highpoint of the trek is a 17,000 ft pass about half way into the journey. But, before we could make it to the pass, and after 5 days of trekking, we were hit with a 100-year storm that came from China. It snowed as much as 6 feet in 48 hours in the high Himilayas. We sat inside our cabin and watched the views disappear in the clouds and the ground, trees, and everything else drown in heavy wet snow. Finally when the snow stopped falling, we headed to the next town up, called Manang, at 12,000 ft. We didn't make it any further... news had reached us from the last town before the pass, called Throng Pedi; avalanches had swept across the trail and cut off our route. Nobody could pass. We were so dissapointed, but there was nothing we could do and we didn't have the time to wait for the snow to melt. So, we decided to turn around and make the 5 day journey back down. The day we turned back we must have seen 30 avalanches firsthand. They were coming down from the 14,000ft peaks on the other side of the river in the valley we were in. It was a bit scary, but also completely incredible. Later that day we realized the severity of the storm when we learned that two groups of camping trekkers, totalling 40 people, had been killed by avalanches in Throng Pedi, the next town up from where we had been. However, we just discovered 10 minutes ago online that this was not completely true. 400 trekkers had indeed been stranded there, but nobody was killed. An expedition group of 18 people climbing a nearby mountain had actually been killed. Nonetheless, the situation is tragic and we feel very blessed to be safe and healthy. The storm has moved on and the snow is melting quickly. We are heading by car to what would have been the end of our trek to hike 2 days into the mountains to a viewpoint called Poon Hill where we will hopefully catch a view of the Anapurna Range that has been up to this point, completely blocked by clouds for us. After that, we off to the Everest Region for 12 days. Wheh, that turned out a bit long and detailed (can you tell Lee is writing this one?). We just wanted you all to know that we are safe and sound. We have very limited internet access in Nepal, but we'll update the blog again in a few weeks when we get done trekking. See you all soon for Thanksgiving!

To read an article about this in Kathmandu Post, go to:
http://www.kantipuronline.com/kolnews.php?&nid=55429

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Friday, October 14, 2005

Good Deeds Come Full Circle

In the Bangkok airport, just before our flight to Nepal, and we spotted Tia - the CUTEST bernese mountain dog puppy we'd ever seen! Of course we HAD to meet her! We got to chatting with Tia's proud owners, Lynn and Sam, a wonderful couple who spend their retirement years between two homes - a southwest Utah mountain cabin and a home in the heart of Kathmadu. About 20 minutes before our arrival in Kathmadu, Sam discovered he didn't have enough cash to pay for two visas at the airport. We happily gave them some money. To our pleasant surprise, they returned the favor by inviting us to stay in their home for the night! They even treated us to dinner. So, our first night in Kathmandu was spent in a cozy home, with our gracious new friends and Tia the teddy-bear puppy! Lynn and Sam, if you happen to check this web site, thank you so much for your generousity and we hope to see you again after our trek!

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WE SAW EVEREST!!!!


Amazing, spectacular and truly indescribable are a few words to express what it was like seeing Mt. Everest from the airplane flying into Nepal. We were lucky to fly in on a clear day, and sit on the right side of the airplane to catch a glimpse. There it was, towering above the rest of the peaks. Soon enough, we will see it up close! We leave tomorrow morning for a full month of trekking through the Himalayas. It's enough time to see the entire Annapurna Circuit (the most popular in Nepal), followed by a 12-day trek to Everest base camp. We're all set with SPF 50, gummie bears, and our new yaks-wool hats! Wish us luck!

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Views of Man and Nature


It pays to know people who know people in Singapore. Thanks to Greg's status as a "preferred customer", we were able to get prime seats at sunset in the bar atop the Swissotel, the best view of the city lights. From the birds-eye perspective, you can see both Malaysia and Indonesia on a clear evening. After that, Lynn's connection at the Tourism Board, Chingy, got us all free passes at the famed "Night Safari," where you're able to watch all the nocturnal animals living it up after dark. The highlights were the "fire swallower guys", the flying squirrels streak across the sky, and seeing the full-grown lions playing. It was a great way to ring in our last night in Singapore!
PICTURES OF SINGAPORE

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Mini-Countries and Hair Cuts


Singapore takes pride in its various different cultural areas, like Little India and Chinatown. As Lynn explained, Little India is a fairly authentic taste of Indian life. The Indians living in Singapore use this are as their "hub" for buying Indian spices products, etc. that they can't get elsewhere. It's also where some of the main Hindu temples are located. Chinatown, by contrast, has turned into a fairly commercialized area, geared mainly toward tourists. We found that it was not remotely similar to what we saw in China. However, we did come across a little beauty school in Chinatown and decided to be adventurous and get hair cuts there. We survived, and still have some hair to show for it. Although it was easily the longest, most tedious trip to the salon we'd ever experienced.
PICTURES OF SINGAPORE

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Going to the Chapel


After feasting on Singapore's famous fish head curry, we headed over to a complex called Chimes for a few drinks with Lynn and her friend Julia (whom Lee met years back when she was visiting Lynn in San Francisco). The Chimes complex is a former school that's been converted into restaurants and bars that are all situated around a center courtyard. Attached to the complex is a HUGE historic chapel that is still used for weddings, special services, etc. It has giant stained glass windows and chandaliers galore. The whole place is stunning!
PICTURES OF SINGAPORE

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Quack Quack Quack!


We took a Duck Tour of Singapore today! For those of you unfamiliar with a "Ducky", it's a vehicle that was designed to travel by land or water. Kind of like a big boat with wheels. We took one on a scenic tour around the city today. We're now well-educated on the architecture of the city. AND, we have a fun new toy too. Lee won us a duck whistle! It's an essential item for any world traveler!
PICTURES OF SINGAPORE

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A Magical World Called Sentosa


Just off the coast of Singapore (literally - it's about 1/2 mile) is a little island called Sentosa that's kinda like Disney World. There's a public beach, lots of shopping and cafes, the "Underwater World" aquarium, a luxury resort, biking trails, etc. etc. We spent a wonderfully relaxing afternoon/evening with Lynn and Greg lounging, chatting and people watching at a beachside cafe. That night, we watched a light and water show where they projected lasers, and a few cartoons, onto a huge fountain, set to music. To top it all off, we drove up to one of the highest peaks in Singapore to check out the view of the city at night.
PICTURES OF SINGAPORE

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Singapore in a Nutshell


Singapore is worlds different than the other cities we've visited in Asia. It's like a little utopia in the middle of a mad, mad, world. It's beautiful and virtually immaculate, with treelined highways, manicured parks, sleek architecture and perfectly-restored collonial landmarks. The city (it spans the entire country) is home to roughly 4 million people.....a fourth of which are expatriots. The rest of the population is a unique and diverse mix of Chinese, Malaysian, Indian, and anyone else that is thrown into the mix. The result is a population of well-traveled, well-educated, and highly "urban" locals. The government here certainly has everything planned down to the smallest detail, and they don't miss a beat. Crime is low, public transport is efficient, housing is abundant and everything is pristine -- social order rules here. Oh, and the shopping is unbelievable! English is the primary language (we naively had no idea), although the accent is totally different than anything we've heard. It's a kind of mix of English and Chinese, with British lingo and inflection mixed in. Singapore was so comfortable to us! All the comforts of home, but with all the excitement of visiting a new place!
PICTURES OF SINGAPORE

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Culture for Insomniacs

Cities are often defined by their nightlife, and Singapore is no exception. On our first night here, we quickly learned that people here simply do not sleep! The Cultural Center was celebrating the final day of an exhibition of Vatican Art and, to mark the occasion, it was staying open for 24 hours. Around midnight, we headed over to the museum only to find the line to get in was OUT THE DOOR. A few drinks and a couple of hours later, we headed back. The line had eased by 2 am, but there were literally hundreds of people inside, including families with small children! Lee and I, not quite able to hang with the city crew, made it until about 3 am!
PICTURES OF SINGAPORE

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How to Gain 20lbs in Singapore

It's easy! All you have to do is gorge yourself at every meal with all the incredible food on every corner. Lynn promised us an all-out 'eating-fest' and she delivered. In five short days we ate enough to feed a small village in a true culinary tour of the city. Although we passed on the duck tongue (sorry Lynn, but it just looked a little too much like a tongue!), we loved the fish head curry (rest assured, no eyeballs, teeth, or gills were consumed). We sampled the various tasty Chinese dishes that we managed to miss while we were in China (yes, Kylene, we ate ate a Hawka Center), and shifted gears a bit with the tastes of India as well.
PICTURES OF SINGAPORE

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Thank you Lynn!!!


A big, huge thanks to Lynn - our hostess extraordinaire - for showing us such a fantastic five days in Singapore. Thank you for going so out of your way to make sure we got a true taste of life in Singapore. We had so much fun exploring the city with you! What a wonderful wedding gift to us. Thanks also to everyone else who helped make the trip so memorable - Lynn's family, Greg, Chengy (sorry for the likely horrific spelling!), Julia, and everyone else we met. You all showed us such a great time!

PICTURES OF SINGAPORE

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Saturday, October 08, 2005

Sugar, Spice and Everything Nice

Everyone get ready for a big dinner party when we get home because I (Betsy, that is. Lee decided to forego the class.) am now a master of Thai cuisine. After a full-day of hands-on training in the kitchen, I can now successfully prepare pad thai, spring rolls, chicken with garlic and basil, chicken and ginger stir fry, green curry, and bananas in coconut cream. A few things I learned today: 1) Thai food has a ridiculous amount of garlic in it. 2) You can’t use olive oil in a wok. 3) When you flambee something- stand WAY back, 4) There are about a zillion kinds of basil in Thailand. Too bad we only have one at home. The only thing we’re lacking now (ok, besides the fact that we’re homeless and don’t even have a kitchen) is a good wok. It’s on my Christmas list already.

PICTURES OF PHUKET

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Phuket, Thailand - Tsunami update


If you were somewhere in a black hole last winter, and didn’t see any sort of news coverage of the tsunami, and you came to Phuket today, you honestly would have no idea that such destruction ever took place. Currently, there is a fair amount of construction and reconstruction going on along the western coast (where we are staying, and where the tsunami had the biggest effects). However, in a touristy area like there, there is generally always a lot of construction as new resorts are built or upgraded. We’ve gotten several different accounts of the damage from locals. According to some, CNN blew the whole thing way out of proportion and the island was back in business within two weeks. According to others, the situation was much worse. Regardless of how extensive the damage was, thousands of people lost friends, family members, or their business and surely each and every person here was affected. Nearly every coastline road was washed away (and since rebuilt) and every business directly on the beach was flooded. But, everyone here is in agreement that the worst result of the tsunami was that it scared tourists, the most important revenue source, from coming to the island. So, by spending a week in Phuket, we are probably doing more for the “tsunami relief effort” than we ever did by donating money to the Red Cross last year.

PICTURES OF PHUKET

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A paradise on the Andaman sea


If you are planning a tropical vacation anytime soon, we could go on and on about why Phuket is probably the best place you could come. Here are a few reasons: 1) The beaches. There are several stunning beaches along the west coast of the island. You can take your pick between total isolation, tourist-mania, and anything in between. 2) The price. Things are dirt cheap here in Phuket. Case in point….two poor backpackers (Lee and Betsy) can afford to stay in a brand new, beachfront resort for six full days. 3) The food. Becoming obese would be no difficult task here. The food is incredible, it’s cheap, and if you like seafood, it couldn’t be fresher. 4) The sunset. It’s the best we’ve ever seen and the vivid colors last for nearly an hour. 5) The locals. People here are so nice, and incredibly friendly. Everyone greets you with a smile, and truly wants you to enjoy your time here. It’s been arguably the best, and most relaxing beach getaway we’ve ever had.

PICTURES OF PHUKET

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Underwater Adventures


Betsy is now officially SCUBA certified! The three-day course consisted of classroom time, training time in a swimming pool, and four real dives in the ocean. Lee joined in on the first two dives as a “refresher course” in his scuba training (it was also his birthday – not a bad way to celebrate!). We split up for the second day of diving, with Betsy continuing her training with the instructor and her fellow student (the village idiot from Hong Kong) and Lee checking out a shipwreck on another island. Our dive company, South Siam Divers, owns a fleet of gorgeous boats, complete with showers, a sun deck, and a full buffet lunch served each day.

PICTURES OF PHUKET

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The Ugliest Duckling

Phuket officially wins the award for the mangiest, ugliest, nastiest stray dogs we’ve seen so far. There’s one beach dog in particular that we’ve seen each day (his “turf” is our hotel vicinity). He’s a little stalky dog who’s been so inbred that his legs are only about 3 inches long and his front feet point straight out to the sides. He’s got black and white fur, but the skin underneath is a strange red color all the time. We’ve named him Ducky because he waddles along like a duck trying to keep up with the other mangy beasts around here.

PICTURES OF PHUKET

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Jeepin’ around


In an effort to save time and numerous headaches taking taxis and tuk tuks around Phuket, we decided to rent a car for our week here. Although it’s been nice to have our own transportation, allowing us to explore the island a bit, it hasn’t exactly made life easier. The car itself is a total piece of junk. It chugs along up and down the hills, the gears stick, the windows barely roll down…..the list goes on. Nonetheless, it runs. We discovered that gas along the beach is purchased at little huts, not unlike a lemonade stand, where the station attendant pumps the gas from a small barrel, into a measuring container at the top, and then into your car. Navigating here has been no simple task either and has contributed to a few squabbles in the heat of frustration. But, Lee’s successfully mastered driving on the left side of the road, and sharing the lane with the billions of motor bikes.

PICTURES OF PHUKET

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Beware of ‘Lady Men’

Transvestites abound in Phuket, and all over Thailand for that matter. Our new friend and local bartender aptly described them as “lady men”. Some make it to the big time – on stage in one of the famed cabaret shows. Many others lurk around the bars and streets of Patong, Phuket’s busiest beach town, waiting for an unsuspecting traveler to take them home. To us, they seem VERY easy to spot by their short skirts, very high heels, and buckets of makeup on their faces. Lee’s convinced that they start this at an early age. He even took a picture of a kid we saw on a train – he swears it’s a boy dressed as a girl……Betsy’s not so sure.

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Welcome to the jungle


The time finally came where we had to leave our beach haven and return to the madness of Bangkok. We initiated ourselves back into city life by heading to Khoa San Road – the center of the backpackers universe. By dusk, the place is already crawling with people, and the pubs and bars are gearing up for the night’s festivities. Some even set up right on the street, offering deals like “60B for a really strong cocktail” (that’s $1.50). At one point we noticed a commotion going on and a crowd beginning to gather around one particular woman. Was she a Thai celebrity, we wondered? We quickly learned that she was Miss Canada – the current Miss Universe – making her way around the city with her entourage closely following.

PICTURES OF OUR SECOND STAY IN BANGKOK

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An elephant’s life


As a tourist in Thailand, you can sign up for any number of different tours. City tours, countryside tours, hill tribe tours, market tours, temple tours…..you get the picture. Many of the tours include a trip to an elephant camp where the animals take you for a short tour of the area. Sadly, many of these elephant camps are nothing more than a group of poor, uneducated villagers, who mistreat their elephants, and abandon them when they find a better job. It’s very sad, and very cruel. Even in the heart of Bangkok, we’ve seen men walking elephants down the street in the peak of rush hour, just to sell a ride. We were lucky, however, to visit probably the best elephant camp in Thailand. Rather than being chained to a fence each night and taken on countless tours all day long, these elephants are brought home to the jungle every evening, where they roam free and live like they are still wild. During they day, they do no more than one or two tours, and are treated very lovingly by their trainers. Sadly, we learned from an employee of this camp, the elephant camps in the north (like the one we went to in Chiang Mai) are notorious for the mistreatment of elephants. It makes us both very, very sad that we unknowingly contributed to the cruelty by paying for our elephant tour in the north.

PICTURES OF TIGER TEMPLE DAY (AND ELEPHANT RIDE)

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Cuddling with tigers!!!


It’s truly a one-in-a-lifetime experience when you get to ride an elephant, and hug a tiger in the same day. We lived that day today! Today’s tour took us our to Ketchanaburi, to see a myriad of things, including the wonderful elephant camp, the bridge over the River Kwai (Betsy’s been singing ‘We Didn’t Start the Fire’ ever since), the World War II Museum, a spectacular waterfall, AND…..tigers!!!! Years ago, at a particular Buddhist temple, a monk residing there took in an abandoned tiger cub. Ever since, the monastery has been rescuing abandoned tigers, and several cubs have been born under their supervision. At the temple, you can actually touch the tigers! One at a time, we were able to walk into the tiger area, where nine tigers were lounging in the afternoon sun. We were the lucky few who were selected to have the tiger’s head placed in our lap for a photo. It’s hard to describe the feelings running through you as one of the world’s strongest creatures is looking up at you. They were so gentle and peaceful, and we both felt that our time with them was too short. Lee, the cat lover that he is, went in three separate times to see them up close again.

PICTURES OF TIGER TEMPLE DAY TOUR

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Floating Market


Imagine doing your grocery shopping from a paddle boat, as you floated by the produce section. That’s what the floating market, just outside Bangkok is like. Ok, not exactly. While the farmers still sell as many varieties of fruits and veggies as you could ever need, the markets has evolved into one of the area’s main tourist attractions as well, with the vendors also selling the typical t-shirts, handicrafts and knickknacks from their little boats. To get around, you hop in a little wooden paddle boat with a guide and make your way through the canals. As you float by, the vendors reel you in by grabbing your boat with a cane, and making sure you look at EVERY single thing their selling. While we were there, we saw yet another movie/tv show being filmed!

PICTURES OF FLOATING MARKET TOUR DAY

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Does this tour ever end?


When we signed up for the floating market, we thought we were going to the floating market…..only. Little did we know that in Bangkok, if you sign up for a tour, they cram as much into your day as is humanly possible. In other words, on a half-day tour we were taken about 15 different (and rather uninteresting) places. Each stop was approximately 15 minutes before we were rushed back on a crowded mini bus and driven to the next tourist trap. So, although we did get to see the floating market like we planned, we also saw a gem factory, as snake farm, an orchid farm, a woodcarving shop, and place where the make coconut sugar. Yes, that was the HALF-DAY tour. Doesn’t a full-day sound fun?

PICTURES OF FLOATING MARKET TOUR DAY

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Monday, October 03, 2005

Lee got a hickey from another girl!!!

Ok.. so it happened about 5 minutes ago out on the street in front of a bar. We are in a beach town called Kata in Phuket. We were walking by after dinner when we saw this really gorgeous, really young girl. I just had to stop and pet her and then we decided to buy her a couple bunches of bannanas; she loved them! Next thing I know she was giving me a hickey on the neck.... and I mean my WHOLE neck! Well, by now you've guessed that I cheated on Betsy with an elephant :)

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Friday, September 30, 2005

Volleyball - Soccer? You decide....

Our hotel in Chaing Mai was across the street from a little park that the locals used every evening when the daytime heat subsided to play some pickup games of.... volleyball-soccer. I don't know what the game is called, but it AMAZING. Take a look and see for yourself...

VIDEO CLIP OF VOLLEYBALL-SOCCER MATCH(Right Click and "Save Target As" to your computer then play file from your computer)

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Zero, zero, seven, bang – AH!


On the first night of our trek, our two guides introduced our group to a drinking game of sorts. The game was called Black Magic, and aptly so. If you lost a round, you got a stripe of soot from an old cooking wok smeared across your face. With our crew of crazy Brits, Scots, and Irishmen, one stripe of black quickly turned into smearing black by the handful all over faces, arms, body’s – wherever they could (we’d worked ourselves out of the game at this point.) They all woke up the next morning looking like they’d just stepped out of the coal mine.

PICTURES OF ELEPHANT RIDE & JUNGLE TREK

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A rainforest without animals?


If you live in Colorado, all you have to do is step out into your backyard and you’ll very likely see more wildlife than we did on our entire trek in Thailand. There are virtually NO animals or birds in the forest here. If you count spiders and crickets as animals, then it was like Wild Kingdom. Otherwise, it’s totally devoid of any type of wildlife.

PICTURES OF ELEPHANT RIDE & JUNGLE TREK
VIDEO CLIP OF THAI CAZOO PLAYING AT OUR CAMP(RIGHT CLICK AND "SAVE TARGET AS" AND THEN PLAY FILE FROM YOUR COMPUTER)
VIDEO OF KID WITH HUGE BEETLE ON A STRING(RIGHT CLICK AND "SAVE TARGET AS" AND THEN PLAY FILE FROM YOUR COMPUTER)

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The view from an elephant


This was one of the things we were most looking forward to on our trip and we got to do it during our trek! We sat on a little bench on Metu’s (our elephant) back for a full hour ride through the forest. He’d reach his trunk up every few minutes so we could hand-feed him bananas! It was amazing!

PICTURES OF ELEPHANT RIDE & JUNGLE TREK
VIDEO CLIP #1 (RIGHT CLICK AND "SAVE TARGET AS" AND THEN PLAY FILE FROM YOUR COMPUTER)
VIDEO CLIP #2 (RIGHT CLICK AND "SAVE TARGET AS" AND THEN PLAY FILE FROM YOUR COMPUTER)

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Keep on Trekkin’


Have you ever wondered what it’s like to work out in a steam shower? We learned first-hand on our 3-day trek through the rainforest outside Chiang Mai. Strangely, the temperature probably didn’t rise about 90 degrees or so. The humidity, on the other hand, was unreal. You’d take about 25 steps and your body's faucet would just turn on. Thank goodness for all the waterfalls throughout our trek! They made for nice, refreshing breaks, and baths, along the way.

PICTURES OF ELEPHANT RIDE & JUNGLE TREK
VIDEO CLIP #1 (RIGHT CLICK AND "SAVE TARGET AS" AND THEN PLAY FILE FROM YOUR COMPUTER)
VIDEO CLIP #2 (RIGHT CLICK AND "SAVE TARGET AS" AND THEN PLAY FILE FROM YOUR COMPUTER)
VIDEO CLIP OF THAI CAZOO PLAYING AT OUR CAMP(RIGHT CLICK AND "SAVE TARGET AS" AND THEN PLAY FILE FROM YOUR COMPUTER)
VIDEO OF KID WITH HUGE BEETLE ON A STRING(RIGHT CLICK AND "SAVE TARGET AS" AND THEN PLAY FILE FROM YOUR COMPUTER)

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Dance, dance dance


Surely a major trip highlight for Lee was seeing first-hand the traditional Thai dances. He was mesmerized by the torch dance, awe-struck by the tea leaf dance, and riveted by the dance of the swords. He’s been practicing them all ever since the show! Keep at it Lee!

PICTURES OF CHAING MAI
VIDEO CLIP (RIGHT CLICK AND "SAVE TARGET AS" TO YOUR COMPUTER, THEN PLAY FILE FROM YOUR COMPUTER)

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Wednesday, September 28, 2005

My, what a long neck you have


There’s a tribe of people in northern Thailand that are known for the long neck women. Originally from Burma, the women wrap thick (and heavy!) copper wire around their neck, gradually adding rings to stretch their necks over time. They add a new ring every one to five years, starting at about age 5 or 6. The tribe is still relatively new to Thailand, immigrating only 10-15 years ago. They’re actually not even considered Thai citizens and are only allowed to live on the very northern edge of the country. If they’re caught in other areas, they’re deported back to their home country.

TEST

PICTURES OF ORCHID FARM, DUNG PAPER, CAVE, LONG NECK VILLAGE
PICTURES OF CHAING MAI

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Poo-Poo Paper


Did you know that elephant dung doesn’t smell? Moreover, did you know that you can make paper from it? We visited the ‘special laboratory’, a.k.a. the little wooden hut, where they make the dung paper, as one of the stops on our day trip today. The entire process, from poo to paper, takes about 18 hours. On the same trip, we also stopped at a big orchid farm with a rather pathetic butterfly farm adjacent. The orchids were incredibly brilliant, with dozens of different varieties. The butterflies, sadly, were mangy and rather dull.

PICTURES OF ORCHID FARM, DUNG PAPER, CAVE, LONG NECK VILLAGE

PICTURES OF CHAING MAI

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The sky is falling!


Today we arrived in a town in northern Thailand called Chiang Mai, in spite of the fact that everyone was telling us repeatedly the we couldn’t come here because the town had flooded. True, the town had flooded, but it turned out to be only a few of the major roads, and the rest was just fine! Chiang Mai is the backpackers’ capital of the world. The entire city caters to the crowd that wants to sleep and eat for cheap, and see a lot of the area. There are guest houses and internet cafes on every block and a myriad of day trips and excursions you can choose from. Makes traveling here pretty simple, but you wonder how “authentic” your experience is at the same time. Nonetheless, Thai people seem to be very proud of Chiang Mai. We chose to rent a motorcycle to see the sights today, as it was way too hot to walk around on our own. The night bazaar here was equally big, but not nearly as impressive as the one in Bangkok.

PICTURES OF CHAING MAI

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Doin’ the electric slide

For those of you who’ve been to Thailand, you’ve probably heard of the famed electronic market. A mecca for those who desire to have the newest and the best “equipment” to make their life easier. The electronics market in Bangkok is the size of a large mall – four floors in all – selling nothing but computers, cell phones, mp3 players, printers, cameras, the works. Buying a Playstation 2 game here is a bit of a covert operation, but Lee managed to walk away with some new ones for Nate.

PICTURES OF BANGKOK

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Here a wat, there a wat


There are some 500 wats (Buddhist temples) in Bangkok alone. For a city of 11 million people, you need that many I guess. Each one seems to be more ornate and glittering than the rest. While in the city, we saw most of the major historical wats while in the city, and toured the grand palace where the royal family resides. The photos can’t even begin to do justice to how lavish and impressive everything was there. Interesting factoid we learned along th way: ‘The King and I’ – in any version – is illegal to watch here in Thailand. The kind is considered infallible and the movie does not portray him this way. Our tour guide at one particular wat said he had to watch the film in a locked room with a guard.

PICTURES OF BANGKOK

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The best market EVER


We found it, the pinnacle of all markets out there in the world: The Bankok night market. It runs from about 7pm until whenever people pack up and leave. We’ve been to many many markets so far and seen lots of handmade trinkets, plenty of fake Rolexes, about a zillion necklaces. This market was finally something different! Row after row after row of really unique, upscale, beautiful things – from clothes and jewelry to lamps and furniture. There was nothing “crafty” about the place. We walked for hours until we finally got to the center of it all – the beer garden of sorts - where they had a massive stage set up with pop singers and background dancers. Quite an evening.

PICTURES OF BANGKOK

VIDEO CLIP OF BEER GARDEN AT MARKET (RIGHT CLICK AND "SAVE TARGET AS" TO YOUR COMPUTER THEN PLAY FILE FROM YOUR COMPUTER)

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Tuk Tuk…..goose!


Tuk Tuk…..goose! So far, Bankok is not at all what we’ve expected. We had prepared ourselves for endless noise, chaos, dirt, mugginess and crowds. We were pleasantly surprised to find out that Bangkok is rather spread out, the weather was much more pleasant and less humid that China, the people are friendly, and the city’s actually pretty nice. Best part about it – it’s CHEAP. We’ve stayed in excellent hotels, and had incredible meals here so far. The food is such a nice change from the bland noodles and sketchy mystery meat we were eating on a daily basis in China! The tuk tuk (basically, it’s a motorcycle with two seats strapped to the back) is one of the primary methods of transportation here. The upside – you get to be outside and ride in a fun little car. The downside – the pollution and traffic are horrendous in Bangkok and, as soon as you sit down in a tuk tuk, you inevitably get stuck between two buses breathing in fumes.

PICTURES OF BANGKOK

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Monday, September 26, 2005

Comments now turned on!

In china the web was all in chinese... so I couldn't figure out how to navigate the settings of our blog well enough to allow comments. But, now they are turned on, so feel free to add our own bits to our blog. Look forward to hearing from you!!

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Tuesday, September 20, 2005

Snap, Crackle, Pop


Each weekend during the month of September, Macau has hosts an international fireworks competition - with two different countries competing each week. We were lucky enough to catch an evening of fireworks. We took our chances, even though it was still pouring, and climbed up to a huge cathedral looking over the famous ‘Macau Tower’ (their version of the space needle) and the harbor where the fireworks would be set off. We have a little video of team one. Unfortunately for everyone watching, team one wasn’t very impressive compared to team two!

VIDEO CLIP (Right click and "save target as" to your computer, then play file from your computer)

PICTURES OF MACAU

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Forecast calls for rain - again

It’s now a meteorological fact that where Lee and Betsy go, it’s going to rain. Sunday’s forecast actually called for squally rain! Sure enough, around 4pm, when we’d wandered possibly as far from our hotel as possible, the downpour commenced. Our $1 umbrella was useless in the wind. But hey, at least being drenched here doesn’t go hand in hand with freezing like it does at home!

PICTURES OF MACAU

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The view from the lighthouse


Today we climbed up to the top of Macau’s central park, which is situated on the largest hill in the area. There are paved paths everywhere along the hill where many people were out running in layers and layers of clothes to avoid getting any sun (despite the fact that it was about 95 degrees and sunny outside. At the top of the hill there’s a huge lighthouse and an old war bunker underneath.

PICTURES OF MACAU

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Vote for Pedro!


It’s election time in Macau. Everywhere you look there are signs advertising the election day (Sept. 25), and billboards for all of the groups running for their General Assembly (we’re assuming it’s like a town council, and they run as teams). There are about 18 teams running together - and their all numbered. We’ve seen two HUGE political rallies since we’ve been here, for teams 13 and 8. They hand out shirts and lots of shwag with their team number on it, and set up a big stage in the main square where they give speeches, and hire really bad singers to entertain the crowd. They also drive their election vehicles up and down the streets broadcasting their political platforms from the blaring speakers on the roof.

PICTURES OF MACAU

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Vegas baby, Vegas


Oh, wait, we’re in Macau, not Vegas. Macau, a city located about an hour’s boat ride from Hong Kong, is quite a place. Settled by the Portuguese, it’s got a distinctly European feel in some parts with cobblestone streets, cathedrals and old, colonial buildings. In recent years, the city has become a haven for gamblers. A few, large and bustling casinos are situated on the south end of town by the ocean. But, give it another 5 years and it’ll be the Vegas strip, no doubt. Everywhere you look in this city there is a giant casino and resort under construction. One, that looks near completion, has a giant volcano in the front. Many of the resorts share Vegas names too: The Rio, The Sands, and there’s even a Wynn hotel under construction. We went inside one called the “Lisboa” - it was packed, and the games were all totally different than in the US.

PICTURES OF MACAU

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Red light, green light


After taking an overnight train, followed by an afternoon in a waiting room of the ferry station and a two-hour boat ride, we arrived in Macau (Island near Hong Kong) with no clue where we were going to stay. Our plan: Betsy would wait with our bags while Lee searched for a hotel. First hotel he arrives at, he notices a group of young women, all dressed like they’re going out on the town. Well, it is a Friday night, after all. Strange, but they all REALLY want him to stay at that hotel. Too bad it’s too expensive for us. He moves on to the next to find ANOTHER group of very attractive scantily clad women - this time even more eager for him to stay. Yes, Lee had landed in the red light district of Macau, and these were all prostitutes wanting him to stay at “their” hotel. Lee, the faithful husband, respectfully declined, and we found a nice little hotel with a deserted lobby to stay in.

PICTURES OF MACAU

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The quest for #2


When we arrived in our quaint little home, we were immediately bombarded by about 10 local women - in their traditional clothes, trying to sell us trinkets they’d made, and asking us the same question repeatedly: “Number one, number two, or number three?” We finally realized they were talking about the three famous scenic viewing points that you can hike to from the village - and whether we would like them to guide us. We declined because, after all, we’re used to hiking and trying to find these little lookout points couldn’t be too hard, right? Wrong. We spend a good three to four hours in the stifling, humid heat climbing up and down, up and down the stone staircases trying to find #1 and #2, to no avail. Disappointed, tired, and drenched in sweat, we headed back to the farmhouse. So, the next morning, we got up early, and hired a local man as our guide. In addition to finally getting to see the spectacular views at #1 (where there happened to be ANOTHER hotel all the way at the top) and #2, our guide had all sorts of tricks up his sleeve. He made a sun hat out of leaves for Betsy, sang Chinese songs, and used leaves to whistle. See the ridiculous video of Betsy trying to do this! (Right click and "save target as" to your computer. Then open and play from your computer)

PICTURES OF LONGSHEN

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A little farmhouse just for us


The Longshen region of China is where, hundreds of years ago, the Chinese created miles upon miles of terraced rice fields. By “terraced”, we mean that the surrounding mountains have been notched out to look like giant staircases. Each “stair” holds rice and lots of water during the rainy season. In the middle of the rice fields, there are dozens of little villages, accessible only by the network of stone staircases that have been built throughout the area. This is where we stayed the night - in a little inn (there are at least 1 or 2 in every village). The inns and houses in the villages were all these huge and intricate 3-story structures…animals on level one, living spaces on level two, and bedrooms on level three.

PICTURES OF LONGSHEN

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60 yuen to get your butt kicked

Yes, that’s what they charge you to thoroughly beat the crap out of you here in China. They call it a “Chinese Massage” on the sign outside. Liars, they are. There is nothing soothing or relaxing about the experience. Just an hour straight of needle-sharp fingers and elbows poking into you, and being repeatedly smacked up and down your back. This is a warning to everyone out there. You will be bruised and sore the next day. Stick to the good ol’ Swedish massage we get at home!

PICTURES OF YANGSHAO

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Vroom Vroom Zoom Zoom

Get your motor runnin’…..Head out on the highway. Picture Lee and Betsy on little electric scooters. The wind in our hair, the sun on our faces, weaving in an out of traffic at lightning speed. Ok, so the lightning speed part isn’t exactly true - our little mopeds only went about 15mph. But they were SO much fun and, at last, we were FREE to see and go wherever we wanted (within a 50km radius before the battery died). We headed off to an old, old little town called Fuli for some lunch, then explored the countryside a little more. We came across a tiny little village that had been named the “modernized village” or something to that effect due to the modern conveniences brought in, the level of education, and the very active branch of the communist party that resided there.

PICTURES OF YANGSHAO

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Tuesday, September 13, 2005

UPDATE: All photos in the albums now have captions!

We figured at some point you would all appreciate knowing at least a little bit about what you are looking at as you scroll through hundreds of photos. We've been so busy and without internet in Hong Kong or Guanzhou that it has been tough. However, it's cheap and widely available here in Yangshao so we are taking advantage. Plus, it's raining right now. Anyway, hope you enjoy and just let us know if you have any questions about any of the pictures. We also added a link on the right side-bar of the website that brings you to the main photo album page where you can access all of the photos at once.

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Monday, September 12, 2005

Fish heads, fish heads eat them up, yum


Our guide, Lucy, yesterday asked us if our markets in the US are like the markets in China. My first instinct was to say yes, but then I realized that we don’t sell live chickens, snakes, frogs, ducks, or pigs in Safeway – unless things have changed in the past couple weeks.

PICTURES OF YANGSHAO

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Ain't no mountain high enough


The mountains here are much different than the mountains at home. They’re tall and skinny, and covered with trees. They look like giant thumbs sticking up from the ground. In between the mountains is totally flat – not even a little hill.

PICTURES OF YANGSHAO

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I want to ride my BICYCLE, BICYCLE!


Biking is the preferred method of travel here in Yenshuo. Today, with the help of our guide, Lucy, we toured the countryside surrounding the small Chinese town. We saw all the sights- a 1400-year-old tree, a local Chinese market, and climbed to the top of “Moon Hill” – a natural arch formed at the top of a mountain. We had another, much less authentic, bamboo boat ride down the Dragon River. Picture Lee & Betsy, on lounge chairs, under a big umbrella, floating down the lazy river. Lucy also took us to her family’s little hotel where we had lunch, and chatted with her family.

PICTURES OF YANGSHAO

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The real deal


Tonight we got probably the closest taste of life in China you can possibly get. When we arrived in Yengshuo, Lee was on another photo mission – this time to capture the mountains at sunset. His idea…….to catch a ride on the river with a fisherman. So, we hopped in a cab (Betsy was a bit reluctant), once again utilizing our stellar signing skills, drove several miles into the country, and ended up in a tiny village on the river. A couple about our age gave us (and our new cab driver friend) our own, private cruise on a little bamboo boat at dusk. When our cruise was over, the whole family invited us in for dinner with them! They bought us beers, and made more food than we could dream of eating. We talked (as best we could) and ate with them until we were tired and stuffed, and we headed home. Definitely one of the coolest experiences we’ve ever had!

PICTURES OF YANGSHAO

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Mail-order bride mania


We chose an English speaking guide and found that most of our fellow travelers were rather unattractive (ok, we know that’s kind of mean, but true) white men with their Chinese girlfriends/wives who they met on the Internet. Some of them were very bizarre couples – one Australian guy said his first wife was Chinese – and now so was his new girlfriend. We met another such couple who happened to live between Colorado Springs and Denver! He was British, she was Chinese, they had a son together and were living in Colorado. It was great to actually have a real conversation with people other than ourselves!! It seems like our English is becoming very simple – not too many big words.

PICTURES OF LI RIVER CRUISE

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Collecting seaweed in a Speedo


Today we took a scenic boat trip down the Li River to Yengshuo – a little tourist town surrounded by mountains. A bit like Vail Village in some ways J, and equally gorgeous. The trip took several hours and included a traditional Chinese lunch. Along the way we saw lots of fishermen, kids swimming, and guys in speedos (really, their underwear) collecting seaweed.
PICTURES OF LI RIVER CRUISE

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It's a small world after all


Last night in Guilin we took a city boat tour. No kidding, it’s like being at Disneyland. The boat takes you on the rivers running through the city. For miles and miles along the banks of the river, the city has set up scenic walkways and lights on all the buildings, bridges, trees and mountains. In several spots, the boat would stop in front of a stage where people were playing traditional Chinese instruments, or acting out traditional plays. The trip lasted about 2 hours total, and the lights were the entire way. They’ve essentially turned their whole city into an attraction. It’s beautiful.

PICTURES OF GUILIN

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Guilin the Beautiful


As soon as we got out and about in Guilin, things took a turn for the better. Guilin is one of the nicest, cleanest and most beautiful cities either of us had ever seen. Rivers, mountains, manicured parks, the works. And, we found a travel agent to book our next 5 days (yes, it’s a bit less “authentic” doing tour-type trips, but it was all the sights we wanted to see)

PICTURES OF GUILIN

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24 hours of pure hell


We woke up and it was pouring rain…..should have been the first indicator that the day was going to be rough. Our last afternoon in Guangzhou was spent running between overhands and store canopies as we tried to catch the last few remaining monuments in town despite the monsoon-style rain. By 3pm, it was time to get a cab back to our hotel, then to the train station to board our overnight train to Guilin. Little did we know, trying to get a taxi at 3pm in the middle of a rainstorm is virtually impossible. After nearly an hour of frantically waving our arms in front of cabs that were already full, we FINALLY got a cab. We were just in time to the train station when - oh &*@% - we have no money for our tickets. Having no clue where we were in the city – Lee took off running like a bat outta hell trying to find the nearest ATM – which happened to be a death-trap motorcycle ride away. A triumphant but incredibly frustrated Lee returns, only to find that no tickets are left for the sleeper cars on the train. And so we embarked upon the worst 14-hours we’ve ever endured. Seats that were hard as a rock and straight up and down. Filthy, dirty men all around us – spitting on the floor (they’re all very phlegmmy here in China) , smoking like chimneys, etc. etc. Bathrooms that, well, we won’t even go into detail there. Each hour, the train would stop, about 100 new people would board our car, and food vendors would run down the aisles SCREAMING – literally – for people to buy food. FINALLY, after counting the grueling minutes all night long, we arrived in Guilin at 6:30 am. Tired and filthy, we found the first travel agent we saw and booked a hotel – just wanting a shower and a bed. No such luck. Our “lovely” room at the Ocean Hotel had cigarette butts in the shower, stained pillows, and so many mosquitoes that we had to set up our handy-dandy mosquito tent and “camp” in our very own room. After numerous breakdowns by both of us, we decided that we were being American snobs, and we could suck it up for one day in our hotel……

PICTURES OF GUANGZHAO

PICTURES OF GUILIN

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Stopping traffic

Jay-walking is a way of life here. No matter how much traffic there is. No matter if there are 55 motorcyles or a giant bus coming at you. People just walk across the street in front of the cars. And, miraculously, all the cars stop! Everyone seems to drive slowly enough that accidents are pretty few and far between.

PICTURES OF GUANGZHAO

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It's a walk in the park


Guangzhou is home to several large, and very manicured parks. The people in the city come here each day to hang out and escape city life. Everywhere you look, old men are playing cards, women are practicing traditional dances, mothers are playing with little kids, or young people are playing hacky sack or badminton. The parks are a wonderful oasis from the heat and noise of the city.

PICTURES OF GUANGZHAO

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And I would walk 500 miles…….


Guangzhou is NOT a city conducive to walking around to see the sights. Within the town there are lots of historic temples, and even a large pagoda. We set out on food, in 100% humidity to see the sights. We walked, and walked, and walked in order to get to the our first stop (it looked so close on the map!!!) Finally, the heat was too much and we gave up and hailed a cab. The cab proceeded to drive about 5 more blocks and there we were at the temple – ugh!!!!

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The universal art of sign language

Since communication through words, reading, or writing is pretty much impossible here, we’ve mastered the ability to use sign language to communicate. We stick to restaurants that either have pictures on the menus, or where we can see the food being cooked. (pretty much it’s all different variations of meat, veggies and LOTS of rice.). When traveling by taxi, we can’t get anywhere without a map. We get in the cab and point to where we want to go on the map.

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What is that thing??


Nearly every store we find here sells little individual-sized cakes, called Moon Cakes. Picture a little pound cake with filling on the middle, and a pretty design on the top. The cakes come in small, bright-colored boxes and are totally overpriced compared to everything else here. We decided to try one out, only to discover that the filling we chose was egg flavored. Yes, imagine eating a yummy, soft pound cake with a hard boiled egg yoke in the middle. Very interesting…….

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It's a big world out there


It occurred to us pretty quickly after arriving in Guangzhou that the ease of traveling in Hong Kong does not carry over into the rest of China. We realized the language barrier was going to pose quite a challenge to us. Somehow, we were able to muddle through and, at the mercy of the one English-speaking travel agent in the city, we found ourselves in an unbelievably nice (and cheap) hotel room. Clean, crisp sheets, brand new bathroom --- it was a little slice of heaven after our shanty guest house in Hong Kong that was no bigger than a closet.

PHOTOS OF GUANGZHAO

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Tuesday, September 06, 2005

Hacky Sack with a Feather on top

Again, random guys downtown in the middle of the street doing their thing....

MOVIE (Right Click and "Save Target As" on your computer desktop. Then open the file that you save to view)

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Macarena!! He!!

These funny ladies were doing the Macarena to no music in the middle of a prominent square downtown for seamingly no reason. Funny stuff :)

MOVIE (Right Click and "Save Target As" on your computer desktop. Then open the file that you save to view)

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Finding Nemo

On Monday, we headed to the northern part of Hong Kong to the area where all the markets are. The “markets” are actually 1-2 block areas where every store sells the same genre of stuff. For example, there’s an entire block dedicated entirely to goldfish. No kidding. It’s awesome. There are a few pet stores mixed in (we’ve found that golden retrievers are extremely popular here). But mainly, it’s just these incredible fish stores with hundreds of different tropical fish and gigantic goldfish. We also strolled down the ladies clothing market and the electronics market (they have more varieties of cell phones here than you could imagine – but prices on cameras and computers are about the same as home).

HONG KONG PICTURES

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Laser Beams

Every evening at 8pm, if you happen to be on the southern part of the Hong Kong peninsula looking over the skyline downtown, you’ll find yourself watching the “Dazzling display of Light and Sound” (as they describe it). Cheesy inspirational music starts playing, and all of the major buildings downtown participate in a light show. Many have lasers shining off the rooftops, as well as multi-colored lights down the sides. The lights are all timed with the music across the water to create the show.

HONG KONG PICTURES

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Yum Yum Dim Sum

One of the best things about being in China is the dim sum. If you’ve never tried it, it’s great. You order small, appetizer like finger food----pork dumplings, vegetable cakes, you name it. We’ve eaten dim sum for dinner for the past two nights and it’s been fabulous. Incidentally, Dim Sum is traditionally breakfast in China. It’s pretty tough to come by eggs and pancakes for breakfast around here. Yesterday we ate at a Japanese fast food place (Tokyo Joes style) for breakfast.

HONG KONG PICTURES

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Stairway to Suburbia


Many of the people who work on Hong Kong island live about ½ way up the mountain behind the city. At one point, the traffic from the apartment towers got so bad, that the city came up with a solution. They built the world’s longest escalator to transport the workers between their home and the city. It’s a one-way escalator, going into town in the morning and away from down in the evening. It stretches for miles. We ran into it during the evening rush hour yesterday. Everyone just hangs out and talks on their phones as they cruise home at night.

HONG KONG PICTURES

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Oreos for Buddha


Just a quick train ride from Hong Kong, on the island of Landau, is the Po Lin Monastery, home to the world’s largest statue of Buddha. You have to climb a giant, and extremely steep set of stairs to reach him, and there he is, towering in bronze at the top of the hill. Throughout the monastery there were several different temples, with large statues of Buddha and other figures inside. At the feet of all the statues were loads of flowers, fruit and whatever food people decided to offer. In some cases, it was a bit strange – cookies and juice boxes (kind of like Santa Clause?)

PICTURES OF PO LIN MONESTARY

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In search of THE shot


Hong Kong is a small island with massive tall buildings on the northern shore, nestled against a lush mountains covered with dense trees. There’s an old-fashioned cable car that takes you close to the top of the highest peak. At the top of the tram there’s, what else, but another huge mall with a bunch of observation decks to catch the view of the city. We headed up there at night, with all intentions of resting our tired feet after nearly 10 hours straight of walking. But, with a view that incredible, there HAD to be an even better spot for Lee to get the perfect shot of the buildings. So, we started hiking up the steep road to the top of the mountain, despite our aching feet. We huffed and puffed our way all the way to the top and what did we find? Trees everywhere in the way of the view. So down we headed. About 90% of the way down and what did we come across – the REAL trail we were supposed to take to catch the view. So back up we headed……...

HONG KONG PICTURES

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Putting Cherry Creek to Shame

A brief comparison of the average mall in America to the average mall in Hong Kong. America: Gap, Banana Republic, Express, Nine West, etc., etc., etc. Hong Kong: Prada, Gucci, Armani, Tiffany, Monolo Blahnik, Fendi, etc. etc. etc. (and that’s not one particular mall, that’s EVERY mall, and individual stores on the street). People here have a lotta moolah to burn.

HONG KONG PICTURES

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The Ladies Brigade


To all the single guys out there, we have found the perfect place for you to meet someone. (Jumin - THAT'S YOU..hahah) Head to downtown Hong Kong island on any given Sunday and you’ll find thousands, yes that’s right, thousands of young women. Why, you ask? We were baffled for most of the day as well. Everywhere you looked, groups of women had laid out small picnic areas where they were having picnics, gossiping with friends, playing cards……you name it. Were they waiting for something, we wondered? Big concert tickets going on sale maybe? No, on the contrary, we learned that Sunday is the day that all of the Philippine housekeepers have the day off. So, these women come in droves downtown and spend the entire day – literally, just hanging out on sidewalks, under building overhangs, even in the middle of the street. At the end of the night, there is an entire crew of city employees to clean up all the mess left behind.

MOVIE (Right Click and "Save Target As" on your computer desktop. Then open the file that you save to view)
HONG KONG PICTURES

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Meandering

Now this is coming from an admittedly slow walker (Betsy), but people in Hong Kong walk unbelievably slowly. Forget trying to hurry anywhere, because you’ll inevitably get stuck behind someone shuffling along at a much slower rate.

HONG KONG PICTURES

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Cartoons and fuzzy bunnies

We actually have a television in our 7’ x 7’ hotel room. When we turned it on last night, every single channel was showing a cartoon. Also, people here have an interesting take on car interior decorations. Dashboards and rear windows are overrun by mini dolls and stuffed creatures.

HONG KONG PICTURES

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Lights. Camera. Action


Up until now, we naively assumed that Hollywood ruled when it came to movies around the world. Apparently we were wrong. Hong Kong is actually the largest producer of movies in the world. We spent the afternoon on their “walk of fame”. Actors have their name on a star, just like at home. Unfortunately, the only name we recognized was Jet Li. One night walking downtown, we actually saw a scene from a movie being filmed. Take a look (the annoying sound is beeping is the sound of the crosswalks beeping to tell you to stop or go)

MOVIE (Right Click and "Save Target As" on your computer desktop. Then open the file that you save to view)
HONG KONG PICTURES

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When it rains it POURS

We read that the rainy season here is in the spring. However, if the forecast calls for “showers” here, forget the idea of a light sprinkling. No, no, picture instead torrential sideways downpours. The kind that pretty much stop everyone in their tracks because there’s no hope of staying dry, even with an umbrella.

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Delicacies


Ok, so not everything is exactly the same as at home. The Chinese certainly utilize an ENTIRE animal for consumption. Chicken heads ---- neck to beak-----are apparently quite normal snack food around here. Also, if you enjoy eating intestines or stomachs, you’ll find a variety of animal guts to choose from at restaurants here.

HONG KONG PICTURES

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Just like home, sort of


Just like home, sort of: I guess starting off in a major city (and one that happened to be British controlled for so many years) eases you into a traveling. In many ways it doesn’t even seem like we’re in another country. It’s not as if Hong Kong is overly “Americanized”, however. But city life is city life no matter where you are in the world. People sightsee…..they’re VERY into fashion and art….. everyone must be either talking on their cell phone, checking messages, or at least carrying the device for all to see at any given time……the vehicles consist of a mix of cabs, buses and ridiculously nice cars……in many ways it’s not unlike an American City.

HONG KONG PICTURES

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Friday, September 02, 2005

Hi from Hong Kong

We made it to Hong Kong after nearly 30 hours of traveling. What's Hong Kong like? Picture China Town in NY or San Francisco and mulitply it by 1,000, adding lots of super tall buildings and high-end shopping mixed in. It's a very cool city with neon EVERYWHERE. The people are very friendly as well - and Lee and I both feel exceptionally large compared to the rest of the population (and that's coming from two people who aren't very big to begin with!). Today we're just walking around, exploring downtown Hong Kong and testing out "real" Chinese food. So far, we've had several varieties of ramen-like meals. Last night Lee, the brave one, tried some sort of meat balls. We're hoping that the mystery meat isn't of the canine variety :) We'll probably be in Hong Kong for a couple of days before we head inland to China.

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Wednesday, August 31, 2005

And we're off.......

It's finally here. In less than 12 hours we'll be boarding the plane to China. It's been an exhausting few days packing up all our stuff --- and we have A LOT of stuff. Our storage unit is truly a work of art thanks to Lee's amazing packing talents. At long last, we're leaving for the first leg of our trip. Just a short (yeah right) 13-hour flight to go!

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Friday, August 26, 2005

Southern Colorado 14er Trip


Well, we aren't working, and who want's to pack boxes up all day anyway? Not us! Ryan, Brandon, Betsy and Lee jumped into Brandon's Tahoe for two days crammed full of driving, eating, and climbing. We headed from Vail to Salida, then south on highway 69 to Wescliff where we turned up a dirt road into the awesome Sangre de Cristo mountains. Rugged, dry, and dramatic... these mountains are packed with 14ers...

Not more than 1 hour after dark and 5 minutes on the 4x4 trail up to camp, we heard a strange noise, and then some local fishermen whistleing us down. What the heck do they want?.... oh, just to tell us that our tire is shredded and we are bouncing along on the rocks on nothing more than a rim... OOPS! Not to worry, we had a full size spare and were back on the trail in no time. We reached camp late, and just before the rain. Morning came early, and the brutal 4x4 road to trailhead of Crestone Needle was waiting for us. 2 bumpy hours later, we were finally sporting our hiking boots and stretching our legs. Before long we were nearing treeline and the flowers and views were incredible. Some of the best in Colorado I have ever seen. By mid morning we had conquered the loose rock of the saddle trough. Not too long afterward Betsy started getting altitude sickness, so she stayed behind reluctantly with Rainier while the three boys headed up the summit block. 45 minutes later we reached the summit of the needle and were rewarded with a few short minutes of incredible views before the clouds engulfed the peak.

After a long walk back down and an ever longer 4x4 trail, we were back on the road. We headed down around the south end of the Sangre de Cristos and then back North again to the Great Sand Dunes National Park. Brandon and Betsy had never seen this incredible national monument before, and they couldn't believe their eyes. The dunes are the highest in the world, and are truly spectacular. If you've never been there and you live in Colorado, you are missing out.

We stopped after dark in Alamosa for a 9:30pm dinner at Pizza Hut. MMMMMM... any food is good food when you finished a 14er! With full stomaches, we finished the last leg of our drive to Lake City, Colorado. Lake City is a quaint little town in the heart of the San Jaun Mountains. We drove 9 miles up a dirt road and made camp, totally exhausted. Morning came WAY too soon, but we forced ourselves out our tents anway. Before you knew it, we were back on the trail again heading towards the top of Wetterhorn Peak.

The better part of the trail lead through a huge basin crested with a razor back ridge between Matterhorn and Wetterhorn peaks. The clouds were whispy swirling apostrophes in the sky. Marmots were chirping the whole way and the wind was crisp. Betsy was feeling terrific (proabbly due to sleeping in the car ALL DAY on the way to Lake City) and the guys were dragging their feet. Two 14ers in a row looks easier on paper. Nonetheless, we all made the summit, but not before the clouds were closing in on us again. So we quickly descended to avoid any lightning and ate our lunch back in the safety of the trees.

That afternoon, we treated ourselves to gargantuan portions of chicken fried steak in Lake City, and then hit the road again, driving north through Gunnison and finally Crested Butte where we had dinner. We finished off the trip with a night drive over Kebler Pass to Carbondale and back to Vail. Fun times! PICTURES


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Honeymoon in Miami & Bahamas


The honeymoon had it's fair share of mishaps, but overall we had a fantastic time. We flew to Miami and stayed at the Wave Hotel in South Beach for 3 days. It was 97 degrees with 100% humidity and our room had no air conditioning, but we survived. It was good training for the warm months ahead of us in Southeast Asia! We spend the time exploring the historic art deco district, eating nice dinners, laying on the beach and then one day at the Miami Seaquarium. Finally, it was time to board our Cruise Ship, Carnival Fascination. We had a great time eating and exploring the ship and it's many bars, stores, shows, spas, pools, etc... We spent a full day on shore in Nassau, Bahamas. We walked the town, and took a ferry over to the famous Atlantis Hotel on Paradise Island. We definitely recommend a cruise, it was a lot of fun, and good value for your money. Next time we'd like to take an Alaskan Cruise :) PICTURES

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Thursday, August 11, 2005

Wedding Photos Trickling In...



I think everyone can agree that the wedding was an absolute blast! Thanks so much to all of our friends and family for helping make our wedding day the most special, most fun, most incredible day of our lives! We love you all :) One of the groomsmen, Nick Goodman, was nice enough to use his geeky computer skills on our behalf; we have a website where anyone who took pictures at the wedding can upload their snapshots for everyone to enjoy. Check it out at www.leeandbetsy.com

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Monday, June 06, 2005

Where in the world are Lee and Betsy now??


Welcome to Betsy & Lee's blog about our RTW (Round the World) Trip! We'll be using this website to keep all of our friends and family up to date on the latest about what crazy new thing we saw or did. We'd love to email you all individually, but it just won't be practical. We hope this gives you small window into our lives as we explore beautiful new places.
Love
Lee & Betsy

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